993 AUXILARY OIL COOLER
KIT FABRICATION & INSTALLATION DIY:
Contributed by: Petu Kummala <PKummala@jfausa.com>
This DIY is for installing an auxiliary oil cooler but not any of the ready made set-ups by Cargraphics, RUF or Turbo S that you can buy with everything already engineered and fabricated.
This is more involved
process since you need to cut the hoses, install the hose ends and also
fabricate the bracket for the cooler and locate the spot for the cooler.
Now that I’m the
guinea pig and also have spent some time to “engineer & fabricate” this,
you should have little easier time and hopefully it isn’t as intimidating as it
would be if you were the first one doing this.
Reward for all this
DIY’ Ing is price of this whole set-up which is about $375 instead of Turbo S’
about $900. With two coolers, about $550 instead of $2000 of Cargraphics.
I’d like to thank
“Old Guy” from pushing me doing this and finding the parts and also p-car.com & Kim and Bill who’ve done
Oil Cooler DIY’s there.
I call the one I did
now “Stage I” since this has only one auxilary cooler and little later when
I’ll install another same size cooler in front of the other opening, I call it
“Stage II”.
“Stage II” should
have almost the same amount of cooling than the Cargraphic kit has (same capacity
but little less effective cooling due to the fact that other auxilary cooler’s
warmed air goes to the original cooler) and you are saving about $1500 for
other Porsche modifications! I used that money for RS aero parts and painting
them.
Little warning, I’m
pretty sure fitting cooler in this location, with oil line fittings on top
won’t fit if you have fog lights but using fittings on bottom in my opinion is
not good idea because then the cooler might not fill up completely when the oil
goes through.
Another word of
caution, if you use measures, locations & other details explained here and
screw up in some way; cooler or something else doesn’t fit, your motor or
something else gets somehow fu*ked up, don’t blame me, you are doing this on
your own responsibility. It worked in my car but maybe your car is different…
STAGE I Part List:
· 1 pc. 30mm to AN12 metric thread male to AN adapter male (Earl's (http://www.holley.com/earlsplumbing/) #9919GFR)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal 180 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #818012)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal 90 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #809112)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal 45 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #804512)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal Straight Hose end (Earl's #800112)
· 10 ft. Premium Racing Hose (Earl's #410012).
· 1 pc. AN12 to 30mm Female adapter. (www.pegasusautoracing.com #1219-12AN)
· 1 pc. MOCAL Oil Cooler with AN 12 fittings (12"X 5"X2", Mocal 235 Matrix, 16 Row Radiator cooler. http://www.batinc.net/coolers.htm)
STAGE II Part List:
· 1 pc. 30mm to AN12 metric thread male to AN adapter male (Earl's (http://www.holley.com/earlsplumbing/) #9919GFR)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal 180 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #818012)
· 3 pc. Swivel-Seal 90 deg. Tube hose end (Earl's #809112)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal 45 deg. Low Profile hose end (Earl's #804512)
· 1 pc. Swivel-Seal Straight Hose end (Earl's #800112)
· 10 ft. Premium Racing Hose (Earl's #410012).
·
1 pc. AN12 to 30mm Female adapter. (www.pegasusautoracing.com
#1219-12AN)
·
2 pcs. MOCAL Oil Cooler with AN 12 fittings (12"X
5"X2", Mocal 235 Matrix, 16 Row Radiator cooler. http://www.batinc.net/coolers.htm)
In principle, this
DIY uses 993TT Auxilary Oil Cooler
Installation as a guideline but is little different because this is not
ready made kit and you need to do some fabricating.
Even though that DIY
gives a lot of information, I’ve repeated some of the procedures here, some
purposely, some not.
OK, that’s the “pre
information”, now let’s do it!
First, jack front of the car up and put it on
jack stands.
Then, start to remove the bumper cover, but at this
point, only remove the splitters so that you can “mock-up” the location for the
cooler.
Without splitters, it
easy to slide in the cooler from underneath and check the position for it. Here
is where it will be installed, in the opening where all the air to the a/c goes
in so the airflow will be very good. Cooler will pretty much cover this whole
opening.
Once you’ve set it
up, continue rest of the bumper removal. Then the front looks like this.
Now take the ST/TS sheet and start fabricating the bracket out of it. Measure everything and mark them to the sheet. First drill the holes for the oil line connections. Then drill the holes for the cooler and attaching the bracket to the bumper bar. Drill first the holes to the bumper bar using bracket on top of the bumper bar so you now approximately where to drill.
Holes for attaching the bracket to the bumper bar aren’t that specific regarding where to put them but make at least few of them pretty close to the outer edge. I used five holes, which I think is enough but not overkill. You also need to remove piece from one side of the bracket. This is to avoid the bumper bar bolt.
Once you’ve done all
drilling, cot the piece to a right size and smooth all the holes & sides of
the bracket. Fit it to its location and check it also with the cooler.
If it fits and looks
something like this, have a beer.
Other (easier) way
for attaching the cooler is just to use ST/St flat bars instead of this kind of
plate. This way is bit of overkill but I wanted to make sure there won’t be any
vibrations and the cooler is attached well but now thinking of it, two flat
bars (~ 5 mm thick) should work as well.
At this point, it’s
good time to make oval shaped hole to the “vent cover” for oil lines to go
through it. I just removed it and made a hole similar to the one shown on 993TT Auxilary Oil Cooler Installation.
Those of you that
have brake cooling ducts need also cut some plastic off the bumper cover
because otherwise you might get some fitting issues due to the fact that one of
the oil lines will block the duct.
Little warning, if
you have stock fog light, check that they fit because cooler in this location,
with oil line fittings on top you might get some fitting issues with stock fog
lights. I didn’t have my stock fog lights so I couldn’t check for sure.
Now, bolt the cooler
in its location and make sure it fits. I used some rubber sheet between the
bracket and the cooler to help it from vibrating too much.
As you can see, way I
made this, it’s a tight fit. Cooler could be little more towards outside of the
car and slightly more angled but I wanted it to follow the bumper shape closely
and be very close to the opening edge so all the air would have to go through
the cooler and not escape on side of it.
Also, close to the
center it is, bumper will cover less of it.
If all looks good,
sit back, admire and have another cold one!
Now it’s time for the
plumbing. Install hose ends to their location so that you can start measuring
the hoses. I used one 55” and one 43” long hose but I’d still test fit and make
sure the lengths are good for you.
Longer hose is
connected with the “U” hose end from the existing cooler and with the 45-degree
hose end to the far side of the auxilary cooler (side closer to the outside of
the car). Shorter hose is connected with the straight hose end from the
existing oil line and with the 90-degree hose end to the closer connection.
I used hacksaw with
fine ST/ST blade for cutting the hoses. Wrap duct tail really tight to the
location where you cut to minimize shearing the ST/ST “braid”.
After cutting I
flushed the lines with water really carefully and let dry them overnight, my
thought is it’s better to have couple of drops of water in the oil (which will
vaporize) than metal shavings…
Once you’ve cut the
hoses it’s time to install the hose ends. It’s little tricky and you need good
vice (with those aluminum pieces so that you don’t screw up the hose ends), oil
and big wrench.
Oil lines come with
the instructions so follow those but one thing I did differently, instead of
attaching the hose end to the vice, I attached the red “nut” and while friend
of mine was turning the hose end, I pushed the hose so that it wouldn’t come
out. It worked fine.
Once hoses are done
it’s time for connecting everything!
First, make sure all
the connection surfaces are clean.
Remove the bumper
bar, or at least driver’s side of it, it’s easy to remove and this makes
connection the line to the auxilary cooler possible.
Disconnect the
existing oil line (the one close to the aft of the car) from the existing
cooler and connect the straight connection to it. Then connect other end of it
to the auxilary cooler’s closer connector and make sure connections are tight.
Then connect the “U”
connector to the stock cooler and other end to the auxilary cooler. If needed,
adjust connections so they are not pushing against others etc.
Once everything is
hooked up, it’s time to test the system for leaks. Start up the engine and rev
it every now and then. Let it get warm enough to thermostat open so the oil
starts flowing to the new cooler. Once flowing, keep revving the engine etc.
until you’re sure there are no leaks. If there are, you might need to tighten
the connections.
If not, smile and
again, have another cold one!
Then finish the
installation with clamps where needed and I also used 1” plastic tube from Home
Depot to those areas where oil lines can rub against the body.
Here’s how it looks
without bumper. I will have another same size cooler on the other side but
first I want to test this with one cooler first. After all, this side is the
“better” side because other side will effect negatively to the original
cooler’s cooling capacity due to the fact that air going to the original cooler
will be warmer because by then it has already passed aux. cooler.
Now, double-check
everything is tight and start putting body pieces back together.
Here’s a shot of the front with the bumper
back on, you can see how cooler pretty much fills the whole opening where air
goes to the A/C radiator but is not hidden behind the bumper practically at
all.
Also, as you might've
noticed, I have "Turbo S air scoop / fog lights but without the lights,
instead, I used the hole for the light for the brake ducts and the actual hole
for getting more air to the original oil cooler (& a/c radiator). Photo is
from “test fitting”, that’s why the duct is “crumbled”.
At the same time when
doing this, I added RS splitters and when you do that, you should fill the
opening that’s created with the different shape of the splitter, if you don’t
air going to the (original) oil cooler has nice way to escape instead of going
through oil cooler. I also added some foam to fill all the gaps that are there,
this way all the air has to go through oil cooler.
Then, install
everything back, double-check everything again and you’re done!
Here’s picture how
the cooler looks when everything is back together.
You now have more
cooling capacity, which is definitely good during those hot summer track days!
Here are couple more
pictures since at the same time I did this, I also removed the bumperettes and
installed RS front & rear spoilers.
