Cargraphic GT Aux. Oil Cooler Install


Kim Ouye (Silver Bullet)


This is an addendum to Bill Bennett’s DIY on the Turbo S aux. oil cooler installation to include specific instructions for installing the Cargraphic GT Aux. Oil Cooler on a 993 TT or S.  I’m not sure about the fitment of this kit on a narrow body.


I bought the kit from Gert at  The kit did not come with installation instructions.  E-mails and phone calls to Cargraphic USA was not helpful.


First I’d like to thank the following people for helping me with this install: Stephen at Imagine Auto Inc., Steve Weiner at Rennsport Systems, Michael B., Rick in Portland, ZCAT3 (Bill Bennett) for the Turbo S aux. cooler install DIY, Randall G. for the resistor diagnostics, and Robin for bumper cover removal and hosting these DIY’s. J


Even with all of this help, overall, I’d say it took me 12-14 hrs spread out over 4 days (not including time to run to the hardware store for bolts and Sears for tools).  It should not take nearly as long with instructions and having the tools and parts available.


I used the following DIY’s:


964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting

How to remove the front bumper cover

Aux. oil cooler install DIY


Tools used for all steps:



Generally, from left to right:


1 “stubby” Phillips head screwdriver

1 regular Phillips head screwdriver

1 standard head screwdriver

1 relay diagnostic wire (18 ga. with male solderless connectors (flat) on each end)

1 multi-meter for diagnosing resistor failure

1 diagonal pliers

1 needle nose pliers for grabbing loose wires when you can’t  reach with your hand

10mm open end/box wrench

17mm open end/box wrench

1 utility knife

1/4” drive 3” socket extension         (extensions needed for clearance in certain places)

3/8” drive 6” socket extension

3/8” drive 10” socket extension

1/2” drive 10” socket extension

1/4” drive socket wrench

3/8” drive socket wrench

1/2” drive socket wrench

2 large crescent wrenches (12” and 15”, in my case, for oil line connectors)

1/2” torque wrench (for lug nuts)

1 silver marker pen (only if TechArt bake cooling kit is installed)

5.5mm 1/4” drive socket

8mm – 10mm 3/8” drive socket

13mm 3/8” drive socket

17mm 3/8” drive socket, only if you have Gert’s front protection bar

19mm 3/8” or 1/2” drive socket  (lug nuts)

3/8” to 1/2” socket adapter (if 3/8” 19mm socket is used)

5mm 3/8” drive allen socket (only if Allen bolts used for the hose bracket mounting)

wheel lock key


(Not pictured)

1 Dremel tool with cutting and grinding attachments

1 black marker pen for marking the aluminum bumper



1 aux. oil cooler with upper retaining frame and fan shroud

1 aluminum upper retaining frame for passenger side oil cooler

1 pair of oil hoses to join the original and new coolers in series

1 near L-shaped metal bracket for mounting the hose clamp

1 hose clamp (rubber with metal insert)

2 ballast resistors PN: 993.616.521.01 (not in kit)








I used the 964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting to determine that my oil cooler ballast resistor was bad so I replaced it during this install.  I also used the diagnostics to verify the new resistor when the install was completed.


Then, I used the How to remove the front bumper cover to remove the bumper cover.


Once the front wheels, bumper cover, front half of the fender liners are removed you can start the internal disassembly process.


AC Condenser Removal


This method does not require disconnecting the condenser from the refrigerant lines as you will not be removing it completely.  Just be very careful not to break the seals to the lines or you will need to have it serviced.


  1. Disconnect the headlight washer tubes at the regulator (3-way plastic splitter) and pull them through the plastic fan shroud.  Don’t disconnect the regulator from the washer fluid tube or you will have washer fluid all over the place.

  1. Remove the AC condenser fan (10mm nuts on each corner and various wiring and hose clips).
  2. Disconnect the fan resistor that sits above the condenser.   Pop the connector out of the clip and pull it apart.

  1. Remove the lower retaining frame (3 - 13mm nuts – 2 rear, one bottom, and 2 - 10mm nuts - front and rear).  You cant see the lower and front one in the pic.

  1. Remove the upper/rear retaining frame.  Pull down on the condenser about 2-3 inches, it is mounted on top with a friction fit rubber grommet (middle of the top).    Once freed, you have access to 3 Phillips head screws across the top (3rd one is behind the resistor in the picuture) that holds the frame to the condenser.  Use a short (3-inch) Phillips or a socketed Phillips to remove the screws.  Remove the single Phillips screw at the lower center part of the frame.  The frame can now be slid down off of the condenser.  Note: I found it helpful to use a crate to support the whole unit while working on it and to support it when taking pictures or reading instructions.  This kept the pressure off of the condenser lines.




Aux. Cooler Install


  1. Transfer the fan from the old fan shroud to the new one.  Note the orientation of the fan in the new shroud.  The new shroud is upside-down so the elec. connecter does not line up as it used to.  I found it best to mount the fan as in the picture. Be careful handling the retaining frame once the fan shroud is removed.  The new oil cooler can slide out after your remove the metal brackets on the corners.  Leave the cooler in the retaining frame as it won’t go in after you mount the retaining shroud and don’t remount the fan shroud yet.



Note: In the above picture the fan is oriented in the wrong position.  The fan power connector should face back towards the upper right fan nut.


  1. Transfer headlight hose clips, wiring clips, and rubber seals from the old fan shroud to the new one.  You will only use 1 of the elec. wire clips in this configuration.
  2. If you are installing the TechArt brake cooling kit, now is the time to cut out the hole for the brake duct hose.  Trace the pattern from the stencil provided in the kit.  I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.  I also lined the rough cut area with ¼” PVC drip hose that was slit lengthwise and attached with weatherstrip cement.


Note the silver outline that is still there.  That is where the original pattern lined up.  It seemed too large for me so I reduced the size a bit and still had room for the brake duct hose.  I also painted all cut edges with rust proof paint.

  1. Transfer the rubber mounting grommet, fan resistor, front & rear rubber mounts, and rubber seals from the old retaining frame to the new one. Note: I replaced my fan resistor with a new one as preventive maintenance.  There was a TSB back in 97 on this part that states that the resistor should be updated to a new part.

  1. Slide the new retaining frame onto the AC condenser and install the 3 Phillips screws at the top.

  1. Push the upper rubber mounting grommet back up into the car body mount.
  2. Reconnect the fan resistor.
  3. Mount the lower retaining frame.  Once the mount is in place, I found it easiest to connect the rear rubber mount first as you have to move the frame or rubber mount around to line up the holes.  Tighten all nuts.  Note: Mine was a tight fit on the front mounting bracket.  The whole unit seems to set maybe 0.25” lower than before, but the rubber mount can accommodate the change in position.


Note: If you have the TechArt brake cooling kit, you must include the brake duct hose here as shown above.

  1. Reinstall the new fan shroud and connect the wiring and hoses.  Use one of the metal clips to hold the wiring in place.  Run the headlight washer hoses through the fan shroud and connect them to the regulator.  And be sure that the two metal brackets are used on the rear mounting bolts so the oil cooler is locked into place.


Note the position of the fan power connector.  This orientation allowed the power lines to be clipped onto the fan frame so it doesn’t get caught in the fan blades.


Original Oil Cooler Dismounting


Although this is documented in Bill’s DIY, I thought I’d share my process as I also replaced the fan resistor.


  1. Disconnect fan power, headlight drain hose, and oil fan temp sensor.

  1. Remove rear aluminum air deflector.

  1. Remove fan and fan shroud.  Optional, but make handling the cooler easier when connecting the oil lines.
  2. Remove lower retaining frame (3 - 13mm (?) nuts and 1 - 10mm nut on the front), just like the other side.  Once the nuts are removed, the frame can be removed from the oil cooler by pulling it downward.  It is held in place by pins that are friction fit into the rubber grommets at the bottom of the cooler.

  1. Remove the nut at the top center of the cooler that holds the rubber mount to the body.  Others removed the whole bracket by pulling the headlight and unbolting it from there.  This way is less work. J

  1. Remove the oil cooler by pushing the top of it towards the body to free up the rubber mount at the top.  You will get some resistance from the upper retaining frame but it will give enough, just be careful to not bend the cooler fins.  Lower the cooler out of the way.  I supported it with a crate to prevent undue stress on the oil lines.
  2. Remove the upper retaining frame by removing the 3 plastic nuts along the wall body.  Also disconnect the fan resistor.


  1. Replace the upper retaining frame with the new one that has the cutout for the new oil lines.  Note: You must transfer the fan resistor, fan resistor connector mounting bracket and rubber seals from the old one.  To remove the fan resistor connector mounting bracket, use a small Phillips head screw driver and push down on the small round disk from the top of the frame.  This will cause the disk to pop out the backside and will allow the clamp to be removed.  Reverse the process to reinstall.

  1. Leave the oil cooler uninstalled until the new oil lines are installed.


Oil Line Installation


This is almost identical to what Bill documented with a minor adjustment for this kit so I don’t have many pictures.  Note: You don’t need to relocate the temperature sensor as in Bill’s instructions for this cooler.


  1. Place the L-shaped bracket in the center of the bumper on the inner/upper side of the lower horizontal surface and mark the hole with a felt pen.  You need to mount it there, because you will need all of the clearance as you can get for the front bumper cover.   I learned this after trying to reinstall the cover…
  2. Drill a hole large enough for an M6 bolt.  It is easiest to drill from the bottom so you will have to eye-ball it with the mark you made.  Just make sure that it is far enough back that the bracket will clear the rear edge of the bumper.  I drilled a small pilot hole to test fitment and to make it easier to drill the larger hole.


Note: The hole in the picture is in the wrong place and should be closer to the lower lip.  I drilled a second hole about ¼” towards the rear when I discovered the problem.

  1. Mount the bracket using an M6 bolt.  My kit did not have one so I picked one up at Orchard supply under the Metric section of their bolts/screws area.  I wanted a stainless steel one but they didn’t have it in M6 size.


Note: Again, the metal bracket needs to mount on top of the lower horizontal part of the bumper not below it as pictured.  The M6 bolt is attached from the bottom.

  1. Connect hoses to the new oil cooler.  The one with the J-shaped end goes on the bottom (the J-shaped connector goes to the old oil cooler).  Remove the hose bibs from the cooler.  Slide one of the copper crush washers on the bib, slide in the hose, and then the second washer and reinstall it into the cooler.  Do not tighten all of the way as you will need to make adjustments when connecting the other end and for clearance of other parts.  Note the orientation of the lines, the upper one points down and the lower one points up.

  1. If necessary, cut a portion of the lower rubber seal to fit around the lower hose connection.  I used the utility knife and diagonals to cut the embedded wire reinforcements.


Note that you do not need to relocate the temperature sensor mounting bracket as with the Turbo S cooler.


  1. Hang the hoses using the rubber clamp, but don’t tighten the clamp as you will need to make adjustments when connecting the lines to the old oil cooler.

  1. Connect the hoses to the old oil cooler according to Bill’s DIY.  Be sure to connect the oil line from the car to the new oil line going to the aux. cooler first as you won’t have room after the J-shaped line is connected to the old cooler.  Also, when connecting the J-shaped line to the cooler, hanging the oil cooler by the upper rubber mount makes handling of it a bit easier.   Note: I needed large crescent wrenches (at least 12”) to do the job as my largest open ended wrench (30mm) was not large enough.  It also might take a bit of effort to loosen the connection.  I couldn’t shake it loose w/o a small bit of penetrating oil.  Also, I found it helpful to support the cooler on a garbage bag covered crate (bag is for catching the small mount of oil that will drip out) while loosening the connections.

  1. Adjust the hose positions as needed, check for clearance with temperature sensor and tighten the hose connections.  Then tighten the hose support clamp.  Since the kit only came with 1 hanger, I used tie wraps on either side (near the corners) to keep the hoses from swinging around.




  1. Remount the lower retaining frame, rear wind deflector, and the oil cooler fan and power connection.




After doing the above three things, you should be ready to test out the system.  I had to run the car for between 5-10 minutes while revving the engine to get the oil to flow and to check for leaks.  I ran it until the oil temp reached the 9:00 position and I also did the resistor test at the relays (AC and oil cooler) at this point before reinstalling the bumper cover and fender liners.  You can hear the oil flowing through the coolers and lines and they will become quite warm to the touch.  


Install Bumper Cover


Reinstall the bumper cover according to the DIY, but first here are a few hints that will hopefully keep you from having to remove it again to adjust the position of hoses and wires.


  1. Check all nuts and connectors (I forgot to reconnect the headlight washer hoses at first) and reinstall your bumper and lights.
  2. Route the fog light wire through the outer plastic faring to keep the wires from hitting the fan.  Also remember to pull the light harness through the bumper openings before installing the bumper cover as the upper oil line makes it almost impossible to pull it up after the bumper cover is set in place.



3.      The driver side turn signal wiring can get caught up in the AC condenser/aux. oil cooler fan since it is now wider than before.  To prevent this from happening, be sure to route the turn signal wiring above the fog light wiring.  This will push it to the outside and away from the fan but will still allow you to reinstall the turn signal light.  You can tape or tie wrap them together if you want.





  1. If no leaks are detected and the fans run properly, reinstall the bumper cover, fog lights and turn signals and then enjoy your car.


Congratulations you have successfully completed the Cargraphic GT Auxiliary Oil Cooler!   Hopefully, with these instructions and the other DIY instructions, you won’t take nearly as long as I did while “discovering” what not to do.


NOTE: Since no instructions came with the kit I assumed that Bill is correct in the line connections and verified it with a call to Stephen at ImagineAuto.   I also had to assume that  the L-shaped bracket is used to support the hoses since it did not fit anywhere else.   I decided that it needed to be used that way because the lower vertical lip on the bumper was to narrow to drill a hole for mounting the rubber clamp directly (it is a little larger than the ones that came with  the Turbo S kit so it doesn’t fit as well).  If anyone finds information to the contrary to what I’ve done, please let me (or even Robin) know so this DIY can be updated appropriately.   YMMV.  J