993 suspension FAQs

This FAQ page lists different suspension options for the 993 based cars, the page is categorized into different sections according to their purpose.  Thanks to Steve Weiner at Rennsport system and Viken for majority of their contribution.   Hopefully the gathered information would be helpful to 993 owners who wants to make decisions about upgrading their suspensions.



Click here to learn about general information on suspension basics


Quick references


complete listing
of the M030 part
numbers
993 factory 
alignment
values


An explanation of the Porsche factory suspension on the US version 993s. (applies to US NA 993) 
By Viken Bedrossian

All the US specification 993s came with 2 different suspension options.  The standard M032 setup and the optional M030 sport chassis.  You will have to look at your car's option sticker to see if it came with the sports chassis M030.  The M030 option was only offered on the Coupe models including the Carrera S and Carrera 4S.  The 993 Turbo already had the M030 sport chassis with the exception of a slightly firmer rear spring to compensate for the heavier rear weight.  The M030 sport chassis option included firmer shocks and springs and slightly thicker anti-roll bars.  There were some slight anti-roll bar differences between narrow and wide body cars as well.  The ride height of all US 993 cars were the same regardless of suspension setup.  The US cars were approximately 20 mm higher in front and 10 mm higher at rear than the standard ROW (rest of world) cars.  On the other hand, all US cars were approximately 30 mm higher all around than the ROW M030 equipped cars.  A US car equipped with the factory M030 chassis could be retrofitted with the ROW M030 springs for a 30 mm lower ride height without having to change the shocks.  After market springs such as Eibach and H&R could also work well with either standard or sport shocks.  This method is quite popular and the least expensive method.


Street option 
(95% street 5% track)

       Price range (Parts cost only)

$350-$400   Porsche ROW, Eibach, H&R springs contributed by Viken Bedrossian

Spring change only, for a visual ride height and handling improvement.  The ride quality is not terrible when it is combined with US shocks, but the standard US  shocks are too soft and are not a good match to these springs.  These springs combined with standard shocks might result in a choppy ride rather than a firm and consistent one.  It is better to combine these springs with either factory M030 shocks or after market quality units such as Koni or Bilstein (Eibach, H&R, springs cost about $350 the labor to install is about $400) Eibach lowers the front about 2", rear about 1.5", same for H&R.

$1800-$2000  Porsche MO3O parts (shocks/springs/anti-roll bars) contributed by Viken Bedrossian

The M030 sport chassis setup offers an excellent compromise between handling and ride comfort. The ROW M030 springs lower the US car by approximately 30 mm for a more civilized look but also offers progressive front spring rates for a slightly improved ride quality over the US springs. With a lower center of gravity, the 993 will corner considerably flatter thus exhibiting more grip from the tires. The ROW M030 setup is highly recommended for those who wish to keep their Porsche all factory and occasionally take their 993's to the racetrack but also drive the car mostly on the highways.

Factory shocks part numbers:
M030 ROW front: 993.343.041/042.35 (yellow color) 
M030 ROW rear:  993.333.051/052.35 (red color - yellow dot) 
M030 USA front:  993.343.041/042.35 (yellow color) this is same as ROW 
M030 USA rear:   993.333.051/052.36 (red color - green dot)

Factory springs part numbers:
M030 ROW front: 965.343.531.01 (orange/green dots)
M030 ROW rear:  993.333.531.11 (brown dots)
M030 USA front:  964.343.531.12 (orange dots)
M030 USA rear:   993.333.531.13 (light blue dots)

For a complete listing of the M030 part numbers please click here

$1800-$2000 Porsche M030 springs + Bilstein HD shocks (shocks/springs) contributed by Viken Bedrossian and Dan 96C2 St. Louis
 

Updated Dec, 2002 Read the webmaster's review on the Bilstein HD shocks
This is another suspension upgrade option that many have found to work out really well with the 993 chasis.  Although the factory M030 setup provides a fairly good setup option for 993 owners, it is said that there are questionable logivity issues with the shocks.  The Bilstein HDs will certainly fill that void.  Below is a post Viken made regarding his personal experiences with the Bilstein HD in conjunction with the factory M030 ROW springs. 

You can purchase the Bilstein HD shocks by themselves or with M030 springs directly from Gert at Carnewal.com


Review by 
Viken
For the record, I ran factory M030 dampers with ROW M030 springs for several years. My car was lowered about 1Ē ± 1/8Ē and handled beautifully both on the street and occasional track driving. One area in which this setup was rather poor is the life span of the shock absorbers. After about 20,000 miles, they showed signs of wear and got progressively worse. The ride deteriorated from firm to harsh and the car wallowed badly affecting grip at higher speeds. Today, I had the shocks replaced with a set of Bilstein HDís and kept my ROW M030 springs. These shocks are replacement units, which are designed to work with the factory as well as aftermarket lowering springs. My goal was to achieve the same exact ride height as before while running higher quality dampers.

Front shocks: To my surprise, Bilstein provides a few less threads on these and the lowest thread is approximately ¼Ē higher than the factoryís. Luckily, at the lowest setting, my car sat exactly where it was before the change. However, those desiring a lower ride height would have to go with shorter springs or a true coil-over system. Obviously, there is no problem fitting standard height springs (US or ROW) with these shocks.

Rear shocks: Thank God Bilstein provided threads on these. In fact, there are more than twice the threads on the rears as are on the fronts. There was no problem keeping my previous ride height and there is room for approximately another ½Ē of lowering. With these shocks, provided are height-adjustable stabilizer collars to accommodate adjustable anti-roll bars. If fixed bars are used, Bilstein provides slightly smaller drop links for those.

On the road: The Bilsteinís are firm but donít appear to be firmer than the factory M030ís. I was hoping for a little bit more damping but at least the car doesnít feel under-damped. Perhaps, these are appropriate quality replacements rather than performance improving shocks? Hopefully, more seat time will tell if there are actual improvements. Stay tuned!


RoW M030 with HD Bilstein Suspension
Installation Report

by
Dan 96C2 St. Louis
(Rennlist 993 Forum 6/20/02)

The installation of Gert Carnewallís RoW M030 w/HD Bilstein kit has transformed my US stock suspension 993 coupe into what I imagine the Porsche design team had originally intended Ė maybe even better. However, itís not a perfect install as Iíll discuss below. 
Initial Driving Impressions
I assume that although I didnít realize it, my oem shocks were shot, because my car is now much more comfortable, relaxed and smoother over rough roads, speed bumps, etc. than with the supposedly softer oem setup. Or maybe itís the magic of progressive springs & the Bilsteins. All I know is with a non-aggressive street alignment, normal driving is more serene Ė Ďtho still very much a sports car ride (itís not Lexus soft).  When pushed there is noticeably less body roll, nice, crisp turn in, less brake dive, in fact, there is improvement in everything related to the suspension.  I sought out entry ramps Iím familiar with that have broken pavement, dips, or, for one, rough pothole patches through the apex, and the car handled them w/o a ripple while before the car would hop, become unsettled and  require slower speeds. The car is just so much easier to drive faster and smoother that it really is like a new car. The real handling test will come at next monthís DE, but my confidence level has already gotten a big boost and my enjoyment of the car has definitely increased. Everything considered this is an extremely worthwhile and cost effective upgrade, IMO.
Installation Concerns
Two concerns arose during installation. My installer (Reid Vann here in St. Louis) had no previous experience with this kit, although they have extensive P car repair, upgrade, race prep, etc. background. I posted on Rennlist & got a predictably rapid & helpful response from several Rennlisters. In addition, the concerns were emailed to Gert who was wonderfully responsive, got on it immediately (at 2am his time) and within a half day the concerns were resolved.  Gert Ė youíre a prince!  Iíve since found that others had the same concerns raised by their shops, so hopefully this post will provide a heads up & ease the installation of this great upgrade.

1.      Front - the inside diameter of the bottom spring coil is about a 1/2 inch greater than the diameter of the raised interior lip portion of the perch on which it sits. Under load that's not a problem. My shop was concerned that if unloaded (i.e. a really BIG bump) it could rattle - not a safety/handling issue, but rather the potential for noise.  We followed the advice of Gert & others not to worry, that it won't happen in real world driving & so far it has not been a problem even at speed over rough roads.

2.  Rear - the spring length is less than the shock length, so, when unloaded (i.e., on a lift or when jacked) the spring drops down & the top of the spring comes away from the upper mounting cup. Here too, Gert & others advised not to worry, because when reloaded it will go back into place. My shop, to be (perhaps over) cautious drilled holes in the top mount & safety wired the springs to keep them properly positioned even on a lift - apparently a common race car practice. Although it may be a cure for a non-problem, I appreciated my shopís concern & conservative approach.

Limited Lowering
Obviously, from a performance/handling perspective, my expectations have been surpassed. The only shortcoming is aesthetic, and itís not major compared to the benefit achieved. As has been noted by others, the  rear strut has a wide height adjustment range. However, the front does not. My install is as low in the front as possible with the rear adjusted accordingly. At its lowest the front is still about 1/4" or so higher than I wanted & the rake is also not quite where I prefer. There were 2 compromise cures suggested to me by other owners (besides getting different springs), but both involve altering the kit. First, eliminating the perch locking nut would drop the front a bit.  Neither my shop nor I felt comfortable with that suggestion. The second (done by at least 2 Rennlisters) is to shorten the front spring length by cutting off coil & thus drop the front the desired amount.  Here too, my shop & I are nervous about possibly altering spring rates or otherwise upsetting the balance inherent in the kit.  I have decided  to enjoy the present setup, put some miles on the car, let the car settle over the next month, see how everything works on the track, find out how the cut coil cars are faring and then decide if I feel the surgical front end lowering is needed.


Street/track option
(50% street 50% track)

$2000-$3000 H&R Coil over or Bilstein PSS-9 and 993-RSR setup (shocks/springs anti-roll bars) 
Pictures + Information contributed by Steve Weiner, please visit Steve's Rennsport System web site for detail information
 

Here is a picture of the complete H&R coil over kit
(Picture contributed by Gert)
Here is the RS Adjustable sway bar installed with H&R Coilovers

 
H&R Coilovers or Bilstein PSS-9 (993-0nly) & Carrera RS Adjustable Sway bars
By Steve Weiner

These kits are based upon using either the H&R Coil over or the new Bilstein PSS-9 setup, together with the adjustable sway bars from the European Carrera RS that was not offered in North America. H&R Coilovers are available with single or dual spring setups and the PSS-9 is a dual spring only. The new Bilstein suspension features 9 adjustments of bump and rebound!
Monoball-equipped camber plates are also available but not generally recommended for street use unless additional camber is required.
The front bar is a 23 mm, 5-way adjustable unit and the rear bar is a 20 mm, 3-way adjustable unit. These come with all necessary brackets and drop links. The front drop links for a C4 or C4S will clear the front drive shafts except for the front most hole.

Below are some pictures of the PSS-9 system contributed by Steve Weiner 
for detail information please visit Rennsport System's web site

Here are the 9-way adjusting knobs on the bottom of the struts and the rear shocks. The alloy collar is the rear upper sway bar mount that is movable for eliminating pre load

993-RSR Suspension System
By Steve Weiner

This is the ultimate in handling, adjustability, and flexibility. This can be designed for street or track use depending upon usage. Street systems ride firmer than stock without beating you up on bad roads. Ride height and corner weight is totally adjustable due to the threaded-body struts and shocks. Springs are dual-rate units with main springs and tender springs to allow suspension compliance over small road irregularities and keeps the springs tight between the perches when the suspension is unloaded. European Carrera RS Sway bars are included in this system as well as a polished aluminum Strut Brace for the front end.

This system is custom designed for each car. We select the proper springs and shock valving to match the application.
 
 

993 RSR Front
993 RSR Rear

 

Here is John's impression of the H&R coil over setup (Rennlist 993/996 Discussion board)

H&R Coilovers - driving notes (long)
Posted By: John ('98 C2S in VA) <johnhuang@yahoo.com>
Date: Wednesday, 21 March 2001, at 9:53 p.m.

There's been a lot of traffic lately about lowering springs, M030 packages (US and ROW), H&R coilovers, H&R supercup coilovers, etc. I finally decided to quiet the discussion once and for all (just kidding) by "donating" $2k to the cause of research. Noble thing IMHO. Ha ha. 
WARNING: Don't read any further if you want to keep that extra $2k you had stashed away for your Porsche's rainy day fund. I will now be one of the loudest advocates of making this switch if you are looking for a great street handling/ride quality balance with some serious improvement (hopefully) on the track. 
In a nutshell - if you like a more controlled, better balanced ride than simple lowering springs and OEM shocks can offer, run, don't walk, to your nearest H&R distributor. 
My frame of reference. My '98 C2S is my second Porsche (it's my daily driver). My first was a '92 Carrera Cup Car (street legal somehow). My previous daily driver was a '98 M3/4 (four door for the uninitiated). On occasion, I instruct at Summit Point racetrack (I've had all three of these cars on the track there). I like tight structures and chassis rigidity (love the previous generations of Mercedes). I like the suspensions to do most of the work. 
I loved the solid structure of my Cup Car but the suspension would be too harsh for a daily driver -- mainly due to the monoball strut mounts. 
I didn't like the feel of the C2S suspension when I got it. It had Eibach lowering springs and standard (not M030) struts. I felt the ride quality was slightly harsh -- more like unmatched -- and the front end hopped too much. Both of these were due to the fact that the increased Eibach spring rates overpowered the stock struts. Essentially, too much spring rate with too little quality damping. Those who have changed another car's struts from OEM to Bilstein will understand the "quality damping" statement. 
I've also driven several standard and M030 US suspensions without lowering springs. IMHO I feel these suspensions are slightly too loose (not to mention the gawd awful ride height). 
Anyway, after six hours of newbie suspension installation, I decided to take a five minute test ride at moderate speeds, come back and check up on the installation to make sure there was no installer error. 
Those first five minutes sold me. 
At our neighborhood entrance, we have a long section of cobblestones that are about one inch too high (the second layer of asphalt before and after the cobblestones still has to be laid). Usually, the previous suspension felt harsh going onto and off of the cobblestones. I was expecting worse with the new suspension. IT WAS BETTER -- more controlled with a tighter feel that combined for what feels like less harshness. Also, the ride over the cobblestones was marginally better. Went about 2-3 miles, came back, checked everything. 
Then, went out for the real fun. 30 minutes of back road fun here in the area (sorry to anyone that might live in Great Falls, VA!). What a blast. Much more control, less suspension harshness, better steering feel. Best $2k I've spent in a while. 
I've put on 150 miles or so since finishing the installation and wouldn't even think about going back. Driving in downtown DC report will come tomorrow. I'm not expecting any unhappy surprises. 
BIG PLUS -- my wife usually complains when I modify something on one of our cars (exceptions were the Jim Conforti OBDII and airbox upgrades on my M3). After she took the car out for an errand yesterday, her comments ranged from "can't tell much of a difference" to "well, OK, it has a bit more of the solid feel like my old C280 Sport." This from a woman who thinks spending additional money on a $80k car is ridiculous. She supports this (although doesn't realize it cost $2k). 
I still have to get the car corner balanced, adjusted for rake and aligned (happening sometime next week). However, I've set the height about the same (maybe 1/4" lower) as the previous Eibachs and my alignment settings weren't affected too much. 
Anyway, to summarize, this is a great upgrade, particularly if you like refinement, control and a lowered look -- especially if you track or DE the car at all. 


Track option

       Price range
                    $2500 Racer's group GT-2 suspension .................. Need info here

                    $4600 JRZ option By Greg Fishman

Shocks JRZ single adjustable with 14 levels Springs Faulkner 450lb front and 600 lb rear Front Camber Plates not sure of brand was told they were identical to the RSR front camber plates. No sway bar adjustments or replacements. Car is lowered at least an inch (never measured it) but it is definitely lower than a car lowered with the ROW springs.  This is not the best street set-up IMO, the car is too stiff to enjoy. I would go with the M030 and ROW springs for mostly street/occasional track. My car is almost exclusively a track car anymore.  Car handles great, These opinions are mine and other more experienced drivers. Car could be stiffer if complete monoball bearings were installed. The car is very neutral.  The only time it has understeered on me was when I had the front shocks set on full stiff as well as the rear. My car feels best when the rear are set to 14 and the front are at 12 or 11 depending on the track.  Best advice I can give is to make sure to use a good shop. I figured it should be a bolt on job, but apparently it is not.  The total price of this package is  Shocks $2800, springs $300, Camber Plates $500, installation about $1000, parts were purchased from Joe Fabiani at Fabspeed


Below is a gathering of posts from Rennlist regarding the suspension upgrade topic

Q:
Yellow 
User # 810 
posted 06-25-2001 22:15 
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OK, I'll finally be springing for it (pun intended). It's going to be one or the other.
But there's the $1K difference, which could be well spent on other cool stuff for the car. Can anyone please educate me on the benefits of either setup? I track my car about 3 times a year at most, but I suspect it may be the aesthetics that's really won me over.

Thanks all. 

A:

JC in NY 
User # 305 
posted 06-26-2001 00:11 
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I think the H&R setup is better because it's more flexible in terms of height adjustment, the spring rates are a bit stiffer and you can fit the RS anti-roll bars. Serious driving demands a serious solution. How serious are you? 


Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems 
User # 95 
posted 06-26-2001 04:20 
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Hi Ben:
If I can just quickly jump in here on this one,.....
IMHO, if one is doing mostly street driving with few DE events and the overall expectations are not for maximum handling, you cannot beat the Euro M030 system for value gained. 
On the other hand, if one wants the maxiumum performance and adjustability/tunability potential, then the H&R Coilover and RS swaybar package is recommended.
In several weeks, there will be some other options for 9-way double adjustable coilovers that will lie between the H&R's and Moton/JRZ stuff.


Chris in Detroit 
User # 370 
posted 06-26-2001 08:17 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by JC in NY:
I think the H&R setup is better because it's more flexible in terms of height adjustment, the spring rates are a bit stiffer and you can fit the RS anti-roll bars. Serious driving demands a serious solution. How serious are you?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OTOH, H&R setup might (depending upon personal taste) be too harsh for the street, M030 would be perfect, but not quite all there for the track - you have to choose, what is the primary use. For example, I have a setup similar to H&R and find it just a bit harsh for the street - OK, but if I never did track events I would remove it. But its wonderful for the track ...... This is a VERY subjective area.
Chris
1996 993 Carrera

Q:
Richard C4S 
User # 560 
posted 06-26-2001 12:17 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well,
First I want to thank many of you on this board for educating me about 993s over the past several years. I wrestled with the 996 vs 993 thing but after driving the 2 and having been imprinted on the wide-hip look I have finally found my dream p-car in an arena red/cashmere & black C4S. In fact I even found it advertised on Rennlist. It has a stock suspension which I am content with but my question is does this suspension differ from the stock C2S in that I gleaned that it is essentially a turbo-less turbo?
Richard 

A:

Viken 
User # 2 
posted 06-26-2001 12:49 
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The stock suspension of the 993 C4S is the same as all the 993's except for a slightly different rear anti-roll bar dimension. The 993 Turbo came standard with the otherwise optional (on the others) M030 sport chassis.
--------------------
Viken Bedrossian
1996 911 Carrera 4S

Q:
CA993 
User # 1634 
posted 06-27-2001 19:30 
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I have recently taken delivery of a 1997 993 TT and wanted feedback as to experiences with changing out the factory springs to Porsche factory european springs, techart, eibach, etc. The car will be strictly used on the street. Suggestions? 

A:

Viken 
User # 2 
posted 06-27-2001 19:49 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your best bet is to change to the factory ROW springs. This will lower the car between 3/4" to 1-1/4" depending on rear rubber shim sizes and corner balancing. The ride will be much the same or slightly more compliant due to the progressive rate ROW springs but the handling will be much improved.
--------------------
Viken Bedrossian
1996 911 Carrera 4S

Q:
Ric 
User # 881 
posted 06-28-2001 13:24 
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I am about to install the H&R coilover (street) setup on my 96 C4S, along with RSR sway bars. Any suggestions on how much to drop the height of the car (w/18" wheels)? I live in the Bay area, will do some track events, but most use will be street. I want an aggressive look, but still streetable. Any comments? 

A:

Viken 
User # 2 
posted 06-28-2001 14:10 
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Try 3/4" to 1". Anything more might cause rubbing and/or clearance problems depending on your specific situation.
--------------------
Viken Bedrossian
1996 911 Carrera 4S


Ran 
User # 176 
posted 06-28-2001 15:42 
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Based SOLELY on pics of stock ht versus actual look of my 993, I have a feeling mine may be a wee bit lower than the 3/4 to 1 inch that you are writing about. NO rubbing at all. This weekend we tried with my wife in back seat too and did not experience any rubbing at all. 
Just thought I'd post that its possible, though probably a function of something else done right, or I may just be wrong about guestimating height differences. Regardless, my car does not have that look of fenders hiding part of the tyres which I hate.. the gap between fender and tyre is fairly constant in the sides and top. Not that totally "slammed" look.

BTW, we also learnt that back seat may look like it fits sideways but headroom is impossible - totally forgot to think of the fact that headroom would be different in the back seat than in the front seat - usually its more in other cars 
She had to sit behind passenger with legs on drivers side and head bent down. And I thought this would be ideal car since we never really use the M3 backseat except in a rare instance like this so a slight discomfort for legs was okay. STill, it worked for what its worth though she wanted to take the M on the trip to return friend.



JC in NY
posted 06-28-2001 16:10 
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I like the European RS height which is quite low - perhaps too low for most but good enough for European sport drivers. The height is measured front and rear at specific chassis points under the car. If you are interested I will post them. 


Carmen 
User # 53 
posted 06-28-2001 22:37 
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Ric,
I installed just the H&R springs, not the whole shabang.. yet.. and yes it dropped it more than an inch or so.. I have had no problems with tires rubbing, with or with out others in car.. including wife and dogs...does give it one heck of an aggressive look tho...
Carmen
95 993 Cab


Chris in Detroit 
User # 370 
posted 06-29-2001 00:06 
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You should talk in terms of what height you want to achieve - rather than drop, since your car may be a little "off" in terms of ride height at the moment - may as well aim for some version of perfection.
Anyway, for reference, and from Workshop Manual:

All values are axle heights in millimetres to the measurement points. Front point is road surface to outer hexagon head bolt of "cross member to mounting". Rear point is road surface to rear mating face of bottom of subframe. There are diags in Manual 

USA Std: Front 174mm, Rear 157mm
USA Sport: Front 174mm, Rear 157mm

ROW Std: Front 154mm, Rear 147mm
ROW Sport: Front 144mm, Rear 127mm

Carrera S / 4S: Same as Sport for USA / ROW as appropriate

Carrera RS: Front 124mm, Rear 107mm

Measurements are plus/minus 10mm

So from this, note that Carrera RS was a full 50mm or about 2" lower than US Std !

My own car is lowered to halfway between ROW Sport and RS settings - very occasionally my 18" (Hollow Spoke Turbo) wheels will scrape going over very broken pavement. But only very occasionally - like I can remember it maybe twice.

From this, I deduce you wouldn't want to go much lower than ROW Sport - or, say 1.25" lower than US Std. without starting to think pretty carefully about rubbing, wheel offsets etc.

Hope this is helpful
Chris



roger sf 
User # 372 
osted 06-29-2001 00:27 
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Mine went from a front fender well "top of the arch" height of 27" down to 26". I had the fender wells rolled and have a scrape bar at the nose. I like the look of the car and wouldn't take it any lower, as the scrape bar gets plenty of use as it is.




Ran 
User # 176 
posted 06-29-2001 08:40 
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Roger,
Thanks. Nice basis for comparison. Mine is about a quarter of an inch lower on the fronts. As I said before, seems fine and no rubbing even with adult wt in rear seat but previous owner did it so am not sure about exact stuff done. Also rear measures just that little bit lower than front - maybe another quarter inch atleast insofar as the fender way of measuring in the manner you described. What I have:-
Front:- Eibach springs; Bilstein adjustable gas struts; Adjustable Porsche
swaybar; strut brace 
Rear:- bilstein adjustable; rear sway bar adjustable; adjustable sway links, teflon greasable bushings. 

Rob W,
haha... funny guy huh. The 5 9 part was the problem due to lower roof, NOT the 130 lbs of unsprung wt. BTW, after all those turbo mods on your car, if you need any bod mod, you know, I'm your man!! new slicks for the treadmill for some 0 - 8 mph in 7 secs and lotsa other commercial grade fit equip in basement - college job was trainer. So any and all kinds of mods available from washboards to pump up looks.  Haven't dyno'd car but have dyno'd self. Rob, did you do any suspension mods on the car of course? I read that thread about your power mods but do not recall susp mods. Thx.

Q:
McCulla 
User # 1739 
posted 07-08-2001 15:42 
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I'm having the complete Euro Sport M030 suspension package put on my 96 C4S in about 3 weeks, (shocks, springs, sway bars, links, bushings, etc.) and am wondering if anyone has any experience with tire rubbing, railroad tracks, sloped driveways and the like. How careful are you having to be? Thanks!! 

A:

DJ 
User # 87 
posted 07-08-2001 16:19 
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I've had this setup on my car, and you shouldn't have any problems at all. At the worst, you'll have to be a little more careful with steep driveways (or the underside of the nose may rub the ground). Other than that, no worries.
--------------------
~DJ


Viken 
User # 2 
posted 07-08-2001 18:49 
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The ROW M030 is designed by the factory to work properly on the 993 provided you are running wheels and tires of reasonably close dimensions to stock. Also, the springs are designed to drop the US cars by about 30 mm (1-1/8") but this can vary from car to car. Also, it is possible to control the amount of drop by using one of three different rubber shims at the top of the rear springs.
--------------------
Viken Bedrossian
1996 911 Carrera 4S


Viken 
User # 2 
posted 07-08-2001 21:22 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by McCulla:
Viken, I assume I can request a particular option on the rubber shim height determination(?)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your assumption is correct. However, your car already has one of the three installed and if left alone, you should expect a drop of around 30 mm.
--------------------
Viken Bedrossian
1996 911 Carrera 4S


Ray Calvo 
User # 337 
posted 07-08-2001 22:56 
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McCulla, don't know what part of the country you're from, but you might/might not have problems. I'm in hilly Western PA, where a flat section of road is nonexistent, and hilly intersections can be a problem. Way to reduce this is to attack such areas (incl. driveways) from the side rather than head-on. Greatly reduces potential for bottoming problems.
Tire bottoming/rubbing should only be a problem with aftermarket wheels. I am running stock 17" "Cup" wheels with 225/45 front tires and 255/40 rears. Mille Miglia aftermarket wheels caused tire rubbing in the rear, but these are offset to the outside at least 1/2" from stock rims (same 9X17 size).

I did the M030 installation myself, then copied a page from the shop manual on Euro alignment and height and told the dealer to adjust it to those specs. I measured rear height before I brought it in, and it pretty much matched Euro height spec; think they might have tweaked the front a little. I didn't do any changing of the rear spring bushing to adjust the rears.

Good luck. 

Q:
gums 
User # 2796 
posted 08-20-2001 22:57 
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I've read over everything related on as many sites as I could, and now I'm either starting a new string, or I missed the point. My question is, how does this Bilstein Coilover kit, that is being advertised as installed, aligned and corner weighted for $2800 stack up? Anyone know how it would compare to H&R, M030, etc?
I think I'm going to go for it on my C2S.
--------------------
Black C2S 

A:

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems 
User # 95 
posted 08-21-2001 03:05 
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Hi:
The new Bilstein PSS-9 coilover kits are an excellent alternative to the H&R coilover kits and should be regarded as a major upgrade.

FWIW, I've posted some pics of the kits and the adjusters, on our website. Take a look at http://www.rennsportsystems.com/~porsche/993.html if you haven't seen them 

IMHO, the spring rates and shock valving are very well executed and there is a lot of range for adjustment. I'm very impressed with the performance and ride quality.
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Steve Weiner
Rennsport Systems
Portland Oregon
503.244.0990


JohnM 
User # 2622 
posted 08-29-2001 17:17 
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Just had a Bilstein PSS9 kit installed, thought I'd share my impressions.
The short version: it's fantastic!

The long version: car is a '96 993 Carrera 4, 43k miles, UK spec, std suspension, with 17" Targa wheels (they look great, I couldn't resist them). Had the car 5 months now, and whilst handling felt OK at first, as I've got used to the car and push it harder I've come around to thinking the std suspension is seriously underdamped, feels like a bouncy castle sometimes . Body floats over fast crests, bounces around at the rear, rolls too much when you really attack the bends, ... you get the picture. After perusing the archives I'd got myself ready to buy either a Techart or H&R kit, but talking to a UK p-car specialist (James O'Connor of JM Autos) the Bilstein kit came up, and since just about all the other kits are using Bilstein shocks anyway...

The kit itself is comprehensive and the parts look great, shame to hide them! James handled the install and the re-alignment, I went for 993 RS ride heights. All went smoothly, and I also had a Cargraphics strut brace installed (when you start spending sometimes it's hard to stop  ).

Had an initial run with the kit at its softest setting (9 on the adjusters), felt too soft to me so currently they are all on 4. First impression was ride is excellent, absolutely no harshness, no bangs or crashes over the all too common potholes and road ridges. It actually deals with poor surfaces better than the std suspension. At low speeds the stiffer springs betray themselves with a somewhat joggly ride, but it all smooths out as speed rises. Body control is now excellent, roll is much reduced, and the car turns in much better than it used to, with less understeer. Reminds me a little of a 968 Sport I used to own, though I doubt anything will match the neutrality and friendliness on the limit that car had.

Overall, I'm really pleased with the kit. It has transformed the car's ride and handling and made it much more enjoyable, feels like I think a Porsche ought to. If you're contemplating getting one (especially if you're currently in a US spec 'hi-rider'  ) I'd say go for it, you will not be disappointed.

Now that the handling is sorted it must be time to get some more horsepower, better re-read those supercharger threads... 


Buck 
User # 918 
posted 11-17-2001 15:44 
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Background:
I replaced the Andial sport suspension (Bilstein, non-adjustable, with Eibachs) under my '95 with the PSS-9 system a couple of weeks ago. I kept the RS swaybars. The Andial system was great on the track but I run a lot of autocross and it was too stiff for the uneven lots we run on most of the time. 
On the Street:
On the street itís very compliant without being harsh. I havenít tried the CD changer but I bet it wonít skip. With the previous set-up it skipped too much to try and use. You can tell the PSS-9 is sprung pretty stiff when you have the dampers set full soft. You can feel the progressive spring rate. The combination of the progressive springs and the soft dampers make for a nice supple ride. Much nicer than even the standard suspension. Some may prefer the dampers be a little more in control.

Autocross:
My initial thoughts was that Iíd run the PSS-9 full soft on the street and much firmer for autocross. I showed up at the first autocross with it set on 4 all around. After walking the course I decided it needed to be much softer because most of the course was bumpy/humpy. I set the fronts to full soft (9) and the rears 2 clicks firmer (7). It was very good right off the bat. We only got 3 runs (188 cars showed up) and I never over drove it, which means I never got to the limits. Iím pleased itís this good so quickly. Iím only going to make one small change next time out. One click firmer in the rear. Still looking for rotation.

Adjusting:
Adjusting is fairly straight forward. The rears can easily be reached once youíre laying on the ground. The fronts are a little more tedious. You need to turn the wheels to full lock which makes the adjusting location easily reachable. The tedious part: There is a Blue cap that is slipped over the Ďquarterí sized adjusting knob which needs to be removed before adjusting and replaced after adjusting. It comes off pretty easily with a pair of small pliers. The problem comes when youíre trying to put it back on without changing the setting. I trimmed a little off the length of the cap so it would fit between the control arm and bottom of the strut so I could push it straight on. You just have to be very careful not to twist the cap as youíre trying to get it back on.

Very nice upgrade.
 
 







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