Cargraphic GT Aux. Oil Cooler Install
Kim Ouye (Silver Bullet)
This is an addendum to Bill
Bennett’s DIY on the Turbo S aux. oil cooler installation to include specific
instructions for installing the Cargraphic GT Aux. Oil Cooler on a 993 TT or
S. I’m not sure about the fitment of
this kit on a narrow body.
I bought the kit from Gert
at Carnewal.com. The kit did not come with installation instructions. E-mails and phone calls to Cargraphic USA
was not helpful.
First I’d like to thank the
following people for helping me with this install: Stephen at Imagine Auto Inc.,
Steve Weiner at Rennsport
Systems, Michael B., Rick in Portland, ZCAT3 (Bill Bennett) for the Turbo S
aux. cooler install DIY, Randall G. for the resistor diagnostics, and Robin for
bumper cover removal and hosting these DIY’s. J
Even with all of this help,
overall, I’d say it took me 12-14 hrs spread out over 4 days (not including
time to run to the hardware store for bolts and Sears for tools). It should not take nearly as long with
instructions and having the tools and parts available.
I used the following
964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting
How to remove the front bumper cover
Aux. oil cooler install DIY
Tools used for all steps:
Generally, from left to
1 “stubby” Phillips head
1 regular Phillips head
1 standard head screwdriver
1 relay diagnostic wire (18
ga. with male solderless connectors (flat) on each end)
1 multi-meter for diagnosing
1 diagonal pliers
1 needle nose pliers for
grabbing loose wires when you can’t
reach with your hand
10mm open end/box wrench
17mm open end/box wrench
1 utility knife
1/4” drive 3” socket
extension (extensions needed for
clearance in certain places)
3/8” drive 6” socket
3/8” drive 10” socket
1/2” drive 10” socket
1/4” drive socket wrench
3/8” drive socket wrench
1/2” drive socket wrench
2 large crescent wrenches
(12” and 15”, in my case, for oil line connectors)
1/2” torque wrench (for lug
1 silver marker pen (only if
TechArt bake cooling kit is installed)
5.5mm 1/4” drive socket
8mm – 10mm 3/8” drive socket
13mm 3/8” drive socket
17mm 3/8” drive socket, only
if you have Gert’s front protection bar
19mm 3/8” or 1/2” drive
socket (lug nuts)
3/8” to 1/2” socket adapter
(if 3/8” 19mm socket is used)
5mm 3/8” drive allen socket
(only if Allen bolts used for the hose bracket mounting)
wheel lock key
1 Dremel tool with cutting
and grinding attachments
1 black marker pen for
marking the aluminum bumper
1 aux. oil cooler with upper
retaining frame and fan shroud
1 aluminum upper retaining
frame for passenger side oil cooler
1 pair of oil hoses to join
the original and new coolers in series
1 near L-shaped metal
bracket for mounting the hose clamp
1 hose clamp (rubber with
2 ballast resistors PN:
993.616.521.01 (not in kit)
I used the 964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting to
determine that my oil cooler ballast resistor was bad so I replaced it during
this install. I also used the diagnostics
to verify the new resistor when the install was completed.
Then, I used the How to remove the front bumper cover to
remove the bumper cover.
Once the front wheels,
bumper cover, front half of the fender liners are removed you can start the
internal disassembly process.
AC Condenser Removal
This method does not require
disconnecting the condenser from the refrigerant lines as you will not be
removing it completely. Just be very
careful not to break the seals to the lines or you will need to have it
- Disconnect the headlight washer tubes at the
regulator (3-way plastic splitter) and pull them through the plastic fan
shroud. Don’t disconnect the
regulator from the washer fluid tube or you will have washer fluid all
over the place.
- Remove the AC condenser fan (10mm nuts on each
corner and various wiring and hose clips).
- Disconnect the fan resistor that sits above the
condenser. Pop the connector out
of the clip and pull it apart.
- Remove the lower retaining frame (3 - 13mm nuts
– 2 rear, one bottom, and 2 - 10mm nuts - front and rear). You cant see the lower and front one in
- Remove the upper/rear retaining frame. Pull down on the condenser about 2-3
inches, it is mounted on top with a friction fit rubber grommet (middle of
the top). Once freed, you have
access to 3 Phillips head screws across the top (3rd one is
behind the resistor in the picuture) that holds the frame to the
condenser. Use a short (3-inch)
Phillips or a socketed Phillips to remove the screws. Remove the single Phillips screw at the
lower center part of the frame.
The frame can now be slid down off of the condenser. Note: I found it helpful to use a
crate to support the whole unit while working on it and to support it when
taking pictures or reading instructions.
This kept the pressure off of the condenser lines.
Aux. Cooler Install
- Transfer the fan from the old fan shroud to the
new one. Note the orientation of
the fan in the new shroud. The new
shroud is upside-down so the elec. connecter does not line up as it used
to. I found it best to mount the
fan as in the picture. Be careful handling the retaining frame once the
fan shroud is removed. The new oil
cooler can slide out after your remove the metal brackets on the
corners. Leave the cooler in the
retaining frame as it won’t go in after you mount the retaining shroud and
don’t remount the fan shroud yet.
Note: In the above
picture the fan is oriented in the wrong position. The fan power connector should face back towards the upper right
- Transfer headlight hose clips, wiring clips, and
rubber seals from the old fan shroud to the new one. You will only use 1 of the elec. wire
clips in this configuration.
- If you are installing the TechArt brake cooling
kit, now is the time to cut out
the hole for the brake duct hose.
Trace the pattern from the stencil provided in the kit. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff
wheel. I also lined the rough cut
area with ¼” PVC drip hose that was slit lengthwise and attached with
Note the silver
outline that is still there. That is
where the original pattern lined up. It
seemed too large for me so I reduced the size a bit and still had room for the
brake duct hose. I also painted all cut
edges with rust proof paint.
- Transfer the rubber mounting grommet, fan
resistor, front & rear rubber mounts, and rubber seals from the old
retaining frame to the new one. Note: I replaced my fan resistor with a
new one as preventive maintenance.
There was a TSB back in 97 on this part that states that the
resistor should be updated to a new part.
- Slide the new retaining frame onto the AC
condenser and install the 3 Phillips screws at the top.
- Push the upper rubber mounting grommet back up
into the car body mount.
- Reconnect the fan resistor.
- Mount the lower retaining frame. Once the mount is in place, I found it
easiest to connect the rear rubber mount first as you have to move the
frame or rubber mount around to line up the holes. Tighten all nuts. Note: Mine was a tight fit on the
front mounting bracket. The whole
unit seems to set maybe 0.25” lower than before, but the rubber mount can
accommodate the change in position.
Note: If you have
the TechArt brake cooling kit, you must include the brake duct hose here as
- Reinstall the new fan shroud and connect the
wiring and hoses. Use one of the
metal clips to hold the wiring in place.
Run the headlight washer hoses through the fan shroud and connect
them to the regulator. And be sure
that the two metal brackets are used on the rear mounting bolts so the oil
cooler is locked into place.
Note the position of
the fan power connector. This
orientation allowed the power lines to be clipped onto the fan frame so it
doesn’t get caught in the fan blades.
Original Oil Cooler Dismounting
Although this is documented
in Bill’s DIY, I thought I’d share my process as I also replaced the fan
- Disconnect fan power, headlight drain hose, and
oil fan temp sensor.
- Remove rear aluminum air deflector.
- Remove fan and fan shroud. Optional, but make handling the cooler
easier when connecting the oil lines.
- Remove lower retaining frame (3 - 13mm (?) nuts
and 1 - 10mm nut on the front), just like the other side. Once the nuts are removed, the frame
can be removed from the oil cooler by pulling it downward. It is held in place by pins that are
friction fit into the rubber grommets at the bottom of the cooler.
- Remove the nut at the top center of the cooler
that holds the rubber mount to the body.
Others removed the whole bracket by pulling the headlight and
unbolting it from there. This way
is less work. J
- Remove the oil cooler by pushing the top of it
towards the body to free up the rubber mount at the top. You will get some resistance from the
upper retaining frame but it will give enough, just be careful to not bend
the cooler fins. Lower the cooler
out of the way. I supported it
with a crate to prevent undue stress on the oil lines.
- Remove the upper retaining frame by removing the
3 plastic nuts along the wall body.
Also disconnect the fan resistor.
- Replace the upper retaining frame with the new
one that has the cutout for the new oil lines. Note: You must transfer the fan resistor, fan resistor
connector mounting bracket and rubber seals from the old one. To remove the fan resistor connector
mounting bracket, use a small Phillips head screw driver and push down on
the small round disk from the top of the frame. This will cause the disk to pop out the backside and will
allow the clamp to be removed.
Reverse the process to reinstall.
- Leave the oil cooler uninstalled until the new
oil lines are installed.
Oil Line Installation
This is almost identical to
what Bill documented with a minor adjustment for this kit so I don’t have many
pictures. Note: You don’t need to
relocate the temperature sensor as in Bill’s instructions for this cooler.
- Place the L-shaped bracket in the center of the
bumper on the inner/upper side of the lower horizontal surface and
mark the hole with a felt pen. You
need to mount it there, because you will need all of the clearance as you
can get for the front bumper cover.
I learned this after trying to reinstall the cover…
- Drill a hole large enough for an M6 bolt. It is easiest to drill from the bottom
so you will have to eye-ball it with the mark you made. Just make sure that it is far enough back
that the bracket will clear the rear edge of the bumper. I drilled a small pilot hole to test
fitment and to make it easier to drill the larger hole.
Note: The hole in
the picture is in the wrong place and should be closer to the lower
lip. I drilled a second hole about ¼”
towards the rear when I discovered the problem.
- Mount the bracket using an M6 bolt. My kit did not have one so I picked one
up at Orchard supply under the Metric section of their bolts/screws area. I wanted a stainless steel one but they
didn’t have it in M6 size.
Note: Again, the
metal bracket needs to mount on top of the lower horizontal part of the bumper
not below it as pictured. The M6 bolt
is attached from the bottom.
- Connect hoses to the new oil cooler. The one with the J-shaped end goes on
the bottom (the J-shaped connector goes to the old oil cooler). Remove the hose bibs from the cooler. Slide one of the copper crush washers
on the bib, slide in the hose, and then the second washer and reinstall it
into the cooler. Do not tighten
all of the way as you will need to make adjustments when connecting the
other end and for clearance of other parts. Note the orientation of the lines, the upper one points
down and the lower one points up.
- If necessary, cut a portion of the lower rubber
seal to fit around the lower hose connection. I used the utility knife and diagonals to cut the embedded
Note that you do not
need to relocate the temperature sensor mounting bracket as with the Turbo S
- Hang the hoses using the rubber clamp, but don’t
tighten the clamp as you will need to make adjustments when connecting the
lines to the old oil cooler.
- Connect the hoses to the old oil cooler
according to Bill’s DIY. Be sure
to connect the oil line from the car to the new oil line going to the aux.
cooler first as you won’t have room after the J-shaped line is connected
to the old cooler. Also, when
connecting the J-shaped line to the cooler, hanging the oil cooler by the
upper rubber mount makes handling of it a bit easier. Note: I needed large crescent
wrenches (at least 12”) to do the job as my largest open ended wrench
(30mm) was not large enough. It
also might take a bit of effort to loosen the connection. I couldn’t shake it loose w/o a small
bit of penetrating oil. Also, I
found it helpful to support the cooler on a garbage bag covered crate (bag
is for catching the small mount of oil that will drip out) while loosening
- Adjust the hose positions as needed, check for
clearance with temperature sensor and tighten the hose connections. Then tighten the hose support
clamp. Since the kit only came
with 1 hanger, I used tie wraps on either side (near the corners) to keep
the hoses from swinging around.
- Remount the lower retaining frame, rear wind
deflector, and the oil cooler fan and power connection.
After doing the above three
things, you should be ready to test out the system. I had to run the car for between 5-10 minutes while revving the
engine to get the oil to flow and to check for leaks. I ran it until the oil temp reached the 9:00 position and I also
did the resistor test at the relays (AC and oil cooler) at this point before
reinstalling the bumper cover and fender liners. You can hear the oil flowing through the coolers and lines and
they will become quite warm to the touch.
Install Bumper Cover
Reinstall the bumper cover
according to the DIY, but first here are a few hints that will hopefully keep
you from having to remove it again to adjust the position of hoses and wires.
- Check all nuts and connectors (I forgot to
reconnect the headlight washer hoses at first) and reinstall your bumper
- Route the fog light wire through the outer
plastic faring to keep the wires from hitting the fan. Also remember to pull the light harness
through the bumper openings before installing the bumper cover as the
upper oil line makes it almost impossible to pull it up after the bumper
cover is set in place.
driver side turn signal wiring can get caught up in the AC condenser/aux. oil
cooler fan since it is now wider than before.
To prevent this from happening, be sure to route the turn signal wiring
above the fog light wiring. This will
push it to the outside and away from the fan but will still allow you to
reinstall the turn signal light. You
can tape or tie wrap them together if you want.
- If no leaks are detected and the fans run
properly, reinstall the bumper cover, fog lights and turn signals and then
enjoy your car.
Congratulations you have
successfully completed the Cargraphic GT Auxiliary Oil Cooler! Hopefully, with these instructions and the
other DIY instructions, you won’t take nearly as long as I did while
“discovering” what not to do.
NOTE: Since no
instructions came with the kit I assumed that Bill is correct in the line
connections and verified it with a call to Stephen at ImagineAuto. I also had to assume that the L-shaped bracket is used to support the
hoses since it did not fit anywhere else.
I decided that it needed to be used that way because the lower vertical
lip on the bumper was to narrow to drill a hole for mounting the rubber clamp
directly (it is a little larger than the ones that came with the Turbo S kit so it doesn’t fit as
well). If anyone finds information to
the contrary to what I’ve done, please let me (or even Robin) know so this DIY
can be updated appropriately.