DIY Litronic Headlight
Retrofit into 1995 993 Carrera
Many thanks to Darrell
Stipp for writing this DIY
The retrofit of the Porsche Litronic headlights
is a substantial improvement of headlight performance. I had previously
driven with the new technology Xenon headlights and found them to be a
great improvement over the standard Halogen headlights. The lens
shape must have also been redesigned as the beam shape is greatly changed
and improved. With the Litronic headlights the beam pattern is much
wider, yet I have not received any flashing complaints from oncoming drivers.
Upon receipt of your retrofit kit unpack
it and check the contents carefully. The headlights are specific
to each side of the Carrera. There must be a connector receptacle
on the outboard side of each headlight assembly, as there are left and
right hand assemblies.
Warning Label decals
Control Unit Plastic Bracket
Control Unit Base Bracket
Pop-rivet 4 mm (2 per side)
Bolt M6 x 16
Torx Self Tapping Bolts (3 per side)
You should find 2 of each of the above.
You will also want some black electrical
tape, black RTV sealer, and di-electric lubricant.
If you do not have a Pop-Rivet Nut pull
gun, you can purchase one from an automotive supply store. HeliCoil
makes one, but it does not have a 6 mm tread nosepiece, so I used ¼-20
rivet nuts and bolts. One could also stop by his local shop and after
having removed the two black plugs from the rivet nut holes hand some cash
to a mechanic to go out and install the two pop-rivet nuts from the kit.
The pop-rivet nut allows the Control Unit bracket to be installed and removed
without removing the headlight assembly, thus I would install the pop-rivet
nuts even if I had to hold the nut with vise-grips and tighten a bolt into
it until it is swaged into the hole. Be careful as one could twist
off the kit M6 bolt; get a high grade M6 from say a Caterpillar dealer.
Most DIY mechanics have a pop rivet gun, but it would also be possible
to use a through bolt and nut to attach the base bracket.
1. Open the trunk and get your lug nut
2. Remove the carpet from the trunk area.
3. Disconnect the Negative Cable from
the Battery and place well away from the Battery post.
4. Check #22 and #23 fuse locations within
the Fuse Box. Remove these two fuses. If there are 7.5 Amp
fuses here, you will need two 15
Amp fuses. If you have 15 Amp fuses
you will be reinstalling them later.
5. Loosen and remove the two Locking Lug
Nuts from the front wheels. I remove these Locking Lugs first and
place them so that I will see them when finished so that I always remember
to re-torque that wheel’s lug nuts.
6. Loosen, but do not remove the lug nuts
for both front wheels.
7. Refer to the DIY section about jacking
your Carrera and raise the two front wheels.
8. For now remove the Right Front Wheel.
9. Remove the Phillips head screws for
Inner Fender Liner and pull front lower edge back out of Bumper Cover and
then pull Inner Fender Liner down to remove.
10. Remove Right Hand Headlight assembly,
same procedure as published in your owner’s manual. Push locking
lever down slightly and unclip locking lever from lock. Rotate Locking
Lever to aft position, headlight assembly should move forward and up.
Grasp headlight assembly and rotate Locking Lever to vertical position,
pull headlight assembly forward up and out of headlight well. Care
must be exercised during this procedure so that paint finish is not damaged.
11. Remove the rubber plug from the hole,
aft of headlight aiming screw access cover. Easiest to remove by
pushing from backside while pulling flange of plug. If you do not
have this plugged hole, the Porsche Tech Bulletin states to use the Control
Unit and its brackets to locate them.
12. Pull the Pop-rivet nut into the hole
of plug removed in step 11 above.
13. Install the metal horseshoe shaped
Control Unit Base Bracket. This bracket uses the two holes located below
the rubber-plugged hole from steps 11 and 12; mine had small dots of masking
tape covering them.
14. Wrap vinyl electrical tape round and
over the end of the Cable Adapter sleeving and down over the ends of the
new contact pins.
15. Remove the Wire Harness Grommet from
the hole passing from the trunk into the headlight well.
16. Feed the taped end of the Cable Adapter
through the Wire Harness Grommet. Pass enough cable through the grommet
to allow the Cable Adapter to be routed along with the existing headlight
17. Use needle nose pliers to pinch the
ends of the Blue Headlight Wire Harness Clamp together. Once the
ends are slightly compressed a slight push of the pliers and the clamp
is removed from the bracket. I removed two blue clamps to allow my
headlight connector to extend down and out of the wheel well area.
Be careful with these clamps, as you will be reinstalling them.
18. Remove the Semi-clear Silicone Headlight
Connector Vent Tube from the connector.
19. Remove Headlight Connector by rotating
the bottom edge of connector to the inside and then, with connector at
90 degrees to the installed position, the locking key will fit through
the slot. Be sure to look on both sides of connector to see this
square locking lug. Extend existing headlight connector and wiring
harness down and outside of wheel well.
20. I used an “O” ring extraction tool
or pick to work on my headlight connector.
21. Take a close look at the connector
pins on the new Cable Adapter. When you grasp the wire you will see
how the pins have two barbs that are simple tabs bent out from the pin
barrel. You are using the straight end of the “O” ring tool to push
down these two barbs from the front side of the connector. Connectors
22. Use the hooked end of the “O” ring
extraction tool to click the Orange Lock Tabs to the outboard position.
23. Start with #1 position, this should
be a Yellow or Yellow with Black striped wire. Slide the straight
end of the extraction tool into the connector from the front side.
Be sure to do both sides of the connector pin to get both barbs pressed
down. With the connector in your left hand grasp the wire with your
right hand fingers and pull on the wire, It should only take a slight tug
as at this point there should be nothing locking the pin into the connector.
24. Next do the same for the Brown wire
in connector position #2. Starting with #1 and #2 gives you a chance
to practice; because when you do #4 you must be careful as you will be
reinstalling this connector pin.
25. Turn the connector around to the backside.
Use the “O” ring tool to remove the White Silicone Plugs from connector
positions #6 and #9. Try to keep at least one of these plugs to reinstall
into the #4 position.
26. If you have removed #1 and #2 successfully
then you are ready to perform the same task on the other Brown wire in
connector position #4. Be careful removing #4 as you will use the
extraction tool to lift the locking barb tabs out into position, like the
new connector pins, once it has been removed from the connector.
Once the barbs are out into their original position you may install this
wire into the connector, at connector location #6 from the backside.
Be sure that the slot in the mating end of the pin is vertical when sliding
the pin into the connector; the two locking barbs should be to either side
of the pin. I used a set of needle nose pliers that have a very small
end to push the wire down into the connector and I could hear an audible
click when the lock tabs went home. A slight tug on the wire confirms
that the wire has indeed locked into position.
27. Reinstall one of your White Silicone
Plugs from connector positions #6 and #9 into the old #4 position.
28. Using black electrical tape, tape
the ends of the existing headlight wiring harness and the new Cable Adapter
together so that they are in line and parallel.
29. Cut the old connector pin from the
Brown wire removed from connector pin #2. Place a 2 inch long piece
of heat shrink tube onto the end of the Brown wire. Use heat to shrink
the tube. Now apply enough heat to the heat shrink to ignite the
end of the tube. Use pliers to pinch the end of the heat shrink closed.
30. Install the new Brown wire into connector
31. Install the new White wire into connector
32. Install the new Larger Brown wire
into connector position #9.
33. Slide the Orange Lock Tabs back to
their inside or center position to lock the connector pins into the connector.
34. Strip enough insulation from the existing
Yellow, or Yellow with stripe wire as well as the new Yellow with stripe
wire from the Cable Adapter. I then soldered the ends of these wires
together as I am fully confident about solder connections, but I do not
trust automotive crimp connections. Headlights are safety items,
like brakes, the tools used to crimp connections for automotive use do
not apply enough force. After soldering the Yellow wires I applied
another 2 inch long piece of heat shrink tubing, again pinching the end
together to seal it.
35. Fold the Brown heat shrank wire and
the two Yellow soldered and heat shrank wires backward and tape them down
to the wiring harness.
36. Tape the existing harness and the
new Cable Adapter together so that they run parallel, use wire ties to
clamp the Cable Adapter along its run back to the Seal Grommet.
37. Install the two Blue clamps onto the
two built up harnesses and route the headlight connector back to its position.
38. Reinstall the Headlight Connector
into its bracket by inserting the square lug into the hole in the bracket
and rotating the connector down and snapping it into position.
39. I used some di-electric lubricant
to ward off any possible corrosion in the headlight connector.
40. Now I bet you think you are in trouble
because you did not install the Black Plastic Control Unit Bracket onto
the Cable Adapter before you routed and connected it. Do not worry
the Plastic Bracket is made so that you can install it over the Control
Unit connector plug.
41. Install the Control Unit connector
into the Control Unit; it will only go one way, look for the slot on the
connector and the tab inside of the Control Unit. Install the Black
Plastic Control Unit Bracket using the 3 screws supplied in the kit.
If your kit is short these screws, as mine was, I installed 5 mm x 10 mm,
.80 thread pitch pan head screws, after I tapped threads into the Control
Units. Cutting threads into the Control Unit case eliminated the
fear of stripping the head of the Torx bolts as they try to self-thread
into the case.
42. Inside the trunk route the Cable adapter
along with the existing wiring and install wire ties to secure.
43. Install tie wraps so that the Cable
adapter has a nice 3 to 5 inch radius loop from the Control Unit to the
existing wiring harnesses.
44. Slide the Black Plastic Control Unit
Bracket with the mounted Control Unit down into the horseshoe shaped Base
Bracket. Install the bolt through the top flange hole of the Plastic
Control Unit Bracket.
45. Clean surface of Control Unit with
Rubbing Alcohol and install the High Voltage Warning Sticker.
46. Install the Right Hand Headlight Assembly;
it is the one with the connector receptacle on the outboard side.
47. Reinstall the Inner Wheel Well Liner
and Right Hand Front Wheel.
The left hand headlight installation is
similar to the Right, except with the Windshield Washer Tank in place,
the headlight connector must be reworked by pulling it through the left
hand headlight opening.
1. Remove the Left Hand Headlight Assembly;
the procedure is the same as for the Right.
2. Place a fender cover or several towels
around the front of the headlight well.
3. Use needle nose pliers to remove the
Blue clamp at the top of the headlight well.
4. Remove the Headlight Connector by rotating
the bottom of the connector inboard or in a clockwise direction.
5. Pull the Headlight Connector through
the headlight opening. Use electrical tape to secure the loose connector
and harness up to the top of the headlight opening. You may want
to insert rags into any openings into the headlight well area; in case
you drop something then you will not have to remove the Left Front Wheel
and Inner Wheel Well Liner.
6. Rework the Left Headlight Connector
as you did the Right Headlight Connector.
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