Trumpet Horn Installation
Kim Ouye
(Silver Bullet)
This kit replaces the small
disk-like horns with the older style trumpet horns. It is a relatively simple installation.
Parts
1 Trumpet Horn Kit (I got
mine from Carnewal.com)
4 Wide female solderless
connectors (wide enough to mate with the horn connectors)
4 Socket pins (came from
wire wrap breadboard kit) small enough to fit inside of the power
connector. See the pins on the old
horns once you’re removed them.
18 gauge wire
Heat shrink tubing (to fit
18 gauge wire)
Electrical tape
Automotive weatherstrip
Tools
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket
Soldering iron and solder
Crimping tool (for
solderless connectors)
19mm socket for removing the
passenger side front wheel
Wheel lock key.
Installation
The horn is located under
the passenger side front fender. Follow
the instructions in the How to remove the
front bumper cover DIY for removing the front fender liner to get access to
the installation area. You do not need
to remove the front bumper cover for this installation. Note: Remember to loosen the wheel lug
nuts before raising the car (I never remember…)
Looking against the body
wall, you will see 2 rubber/steel clamps that hold the oil lines and wiring in
place. The new bracket will be mounted
to the same studs and will replace the rubber/steel clamps. Holes in the new bracket match up with the
existing studs.
The old horns can be seen at
the top of the following picture (silver cap, black bottom disks). The bells of the new horns will roughly end
up where the old horns are located, above the oil cooler.
Unbolt (10mm) the two
existing horns and disconnect the power connectors. There’s a little clip that you need to push down on to release
the connector, then just pull out. I was
not able to find a matching connector so I made up a set of adapter wires so I
wouldn’t have to cut the existing connecter off in case I ever wanted to return
to the old horns.
Cut 4 lengths of 18 gauge
wire, preferably 2 each of different colors, about 6 inches long. Attach the female solderless connectors to
one end of each. Solder the pins to the
other ends and secure it with the shrink wrap tubing. Leave about 1/4” to 3/8” of the pin exposed (to insert into the
power connector).
Next, remove the 2
rubber/steel clamps using a 10mm socket and install the new bracket as shown in
the picture. The rear two holes should
be used to prevent interference with the fender liner. The wiring will be held in place by the
U-shaped portion of the bracket. Note:
The oil lines do not line up with the part of the bracket that is meant for
them. I used a large tie wrap to secure
them, even though it probably was not necessary.
Mount the horns to the
bracket. The longer one on the inside
mounting point. Use the original nuts
and shake resistant washers to mount them.
The shake resistant washer is installed on the front side of the bracket
while the nut is installed on the back.
Do not tighten the nuts completely.
Leave enough slack so that you can easily turn the horns. I pointed the power terminals towards the
bottom for ease of access initially but turned them towards the body to keep
the wiring off of the fender liner.
I did not modify the
original bracket even tough it is slightly in the way. To prevent rattling I mounted some
automotive weather strip to the backside of the inner arm (near the long horn)
and a small strip to the top of the outer arm (inside the short horn bell!). If the horns should move, they won’t make
contact with metal and rattle.
Now make the electrical
connections. I connected the left
connector on the horn to the Pin 1 hole in the power socket (socket is marked) and
the other to Pin 2. I have no idea
of this is correct, but it worked fine.
To protect the wiring, I
turned both horns such that the connectors faced the body of the car and not
the fender liner. I then used a tie wrap
to secure the excess wiring to the shorter horn. Hopefully, this will prevent rattling. I also wrapped the power connector with electrical tape, securing
the horn wiring to it. I used enough to
ensure that no water should be able to get in there.
To test the horn, put the
key in the ignition and turn on the accessories (or start the car). Test the horn. If all goes well, you can now reinstall your fender liner and wheel. Hand tighten the lug nuts while the car is
still on the stands. Note: Don’t
forget to fully tighten the lug nuts after you lower the car (I always forget
and almost drive off with them not torqued properly…).