993 Hood shock replacement
This article is copyright
W Noble, Oct 2002. Permission is hereby granted to display and
print this article for personal non-commercial use only. For permission
to reproduce in quantity, or to use for commercial purposes, please contact
the author at william_b_noble@IEEE.org .
You open the rear of your car to add oil,
and while your are pouring the oil in the rear deck lid closes on your
head, or better still, pushes the oil container away from the little tube
you are pouring oil into and spills it all over your engine.
You go to open the front hood (for example,
to take the car cover out) and you have to use a knife or other implement
of destruction to lift it up.
If either of these apply to you, you need
to replace the gas springs that lift the front and back hoods.
Rear Hood Springs
Let’s do the rear’s first – for two reasons:
they wear out quicker (no doubt due to engine heat), and they are (believe
it or not) a little easier to change.
First, a word of caution – the convertible
(cabriolet) uses shorter springs than the other models – be sure you get
the right parts. There are some “heavy duty” gas springs with a lifetime
warranty available, I have not tried these, and I would suggest caution
– if the spring is too strong you may have unpleasant surprises.
The heavy duty gas springs are not available for the cabriolet (to my knowledge).
The original parts lasted me 4 years.
If you don’t drive very much, they may last longer.
The right rear is the easiest – so do
it first. Remove the air cleaner cover and the air cleaner element.
Have an assistant hold the hood mostly open. Remove the clip and
pin from the back (away from the firewall) end of the gas spring, and then
remove the clip and pin holding the other end (the end near the firewall)
– be very careful not to drop any parts, if you do, you will never see
them again. Install the new gas spring by doing the opposite – e.g.
install the firewall end of the gas spring by pushing the pin through the
spring and placing the clip back in place (being careful not to drop anything).
Then, attach the end that connects to the deck lid. Note that the
case of the spring is attached to the lid, and the piston rod is attached
to the firewall.
The left rear is the same procedure as
the right rear, except that there is nothing you can move out of the way,
you just have to reach into the engine compartment and do it. I found
that reaching below the various obstructing parts worked for getting to
the firewall end, and reaching above the parts allowed access to the deck
lid end. As with the right side, the body is attached to the deck
lid and the piston is attached to the firewall.
Front gas springs
The front gas springs are larger, and
access to the lower end of either spring is actually impossible, so you
need some special tools. Pictured below are the two special tools
I’d recommend. The top one is what I call a “grabber” – you will
need this when you drop a part. The parts are recoverable with a
grabber (as opposed to the rear gas springs where any dropped parts are
just plain gone) because they will fall into the enclosed body area.
And if you don’t recover them, they will probably rattle and drive you
The second tool is a flashlight with the
bulb on the end of a flexible cable – the access is so restricted you can’t
use a regular flashlight, get the beam where you need it, and still be
able to use a tool. If you have a really bright shop light, it might
work, but I was working outside (the sun is a pretty bright shop light)
and I still couldn’t see anything without a flashlight, and I couldn’t
work with a regular flashlight.
Now Now that you have located the special
tools, you also need a fairly long small bladed screwdriver. 3/16
seems about right, ¼ inch is too big, (that’s about 5 mm for you
metric folks). With this, we can start.
Practice Releasing the Clip
The lower end of each gas spring rides
on a ball joint. It is held onto the ball joint by a retaining clip
that is released by sliding the 5mm screwdriver under it, as shown in this
picture. I strongly suggest you practice this 3 or 4 times with your
new spring before you try and take out the old ones. Just hold the
screwdriver parallel to the gas spring piston rod and slide the blade under
the clip (and if needed, twist a little). Don’t go to far or the
clip will spring off and then you will need to use the grabber to retrieve
it, and you’ll need the flashlight to find it (ask me how I know this).
OK, ready? Not yet. We have
one more step before you start:
Preparing the Clips
You will not be able to get the ball socket
over the little ball if you don’t prepare the clip so it is open.
I do this by sliding the clip ever so slightly “forward” – e.g. away from
the body of the gas spring. See the picture below. The clip
in the picture is slid too far, but this is so you can see what you are
supposed to do. Place your 5 mm screw driver under the clip and lift up
on the handle so that you leverage the clip forward up onto ledge that
forms the front of the ball socket – this will hold the clip open enough,
and when you place the ball socket over the ball, it will snap back in
place (if not, you can use a bent wire coat hanger to pull it up (toward
the gas spring body) to make it snap into place.
Prepare the clips on both gas springs if
you are changing both sides.
Now we are ready to change the gas springs.
The left side is the easiest. Have
an assistant hold the hood open. Remove the plastic cover that is
over the fresh air blowers – to do this, lift the rubber seal straight
up and off of the sheet metal, and then pull the whole assembly (gently)
forward. Put it safely out of the way.
Now, remove the small metal clip on top
of the cover for the pollen filter. Move the wires that are under
the clip out of the way. Unscrew the pollen filter cover retaining nut
(an aluminum knurled affair) and unclip the retaining clip on the far left
side and remove the cover. (Note – if you have a really long screwdriver,
you may not need to do this step).
Now, push the pin that holds the gas spring
to the hood towards the inside of the car, and remove the clip. Then
remove the pin. Have your assistant move the hood up/down until there
is no pressure on the pin so you can get it out easily.
Take your flexible flashlight and illuminate
the ball joint – it is (of course) on the bottom end of the gas spring.
Then, release the clip on the ball socket
(like you practiced in “Practice Releasing the Clip”). Holding both
the screwdriver and the old spring, apply force towards the centerline
of the car and the ball socket will pop free. Remove the old gas
To install the new spring, first check
that the clip is still in the “prepared” position. Push the ball
socket over the ball joint and verify that the clip snapped into the groove.
If it didn’t, use a bent piece of wire to coax it upward. If it is
in its groove you will not be able to pull the ball socket off of the ball
joint (at least, not without a rather extreme amount of force).
Attach the upper end of the gas spring
(having your assistant raise the hood so you can get the top of the spring
into it’s slot, and then lower the hood until the holes for the pin line
up). Insert the pin and attach the pin’s retaining clip. You
may elect to put a little grease on the pin – the factory seems not to
have done this, and so the pin does show wear.
After the spring is properly connected,
replace the pollen filter cover – be careful to line up the various groves
– when you get it right it will slide smoothly into place. Place
the wires back where they came from and replace the metal clip that holds
them in place.
The right side is replaced using the same
procedure, with the following additional steps:
There is a wiring harness that goes over
the top of the pollen filter cover. There is a plug on the side of
the pollen filter cover. Unplug the harness at this plug. Slide
the part of the harness that was attached to the cover up and towards the
center of the car to release it from the cover.
There is a plastic sleeve that prevents
the gas spring from chaffing against the wires that are near it.
This sleeve is in the way and can be pulled upwards towards the gas spring
body so you can see and release the clip that holds the ball socket.
Don’t forget to put the plastic sleeve
back on the new gas spring before you install it.
from Aaron Chan
Thanks for providing very useful and entertaining
information on 993s. I replaced the front hood shocks today and found that
I did not have to fiddle with the spring clips. I applied a tiny bit of
grease on the clip. All it took was a little pressure and the lower end
slipped right in place.
One thing I had to do when removing the
old shocks was to remove a snap-ring type retainer on the lower end before
the ball-joint can be pried loose. Hope this helps.
|Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:06:42
You put the fear into us by stating that
dropped parts go into never never
land. As tight and far back as you have
to get I could see why from the
start. To avoid this I tied a piece of
small string/thread to each clip
and pin as I installed the new shocks.
This worked great and definetely
saved me a few clips and pins.
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