Aftermarket non OEM
HID for 993
Recently there have been lots of inquiries
about aftermarket HIDs for our 993. With permission from Dan I have
combined all the e-mails that have been going around regarding this retrofit
and placed them here on this web site.
|From: Dan Sokal St. Louise
Subject: Re: HID Replacements - Installation
experience (long w/pics)
Sent: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:33:50 ESTSteve:
Thanks for the update & congratulations
on your installation. I also installed my HID conversion during this weekend
and the difference is like, well, night and day. The low beam HIDs dwarf
the high beams (w/55W H1 PIAA "Super White") at distances where they overlap.
The HIDs flicker purple for a second or two when turned on & then move
to "sunlight" white, not the bluish tint as seen on BMWs. Very cool.
I approached things a little differently.
I cut my wire exit holes at the other (spring) end so that I had more wire
length outside the headlight assembly which made installing into the fender
bucket pretty easy.
I did not pull the fender liners &
it was a one person job. I guess the extra few inches of wire allowed me
to rest the headlights in the bucket & still be able to reach in &
place the ballasts. I wrapped each ballast with foam secured by the provided
long wire ties. For the LHD driver's side (less space) wedged it alongside
the AC lines where, once the headlight is installed, it isn't moving, This
also permits me to remove the headlight w/o pulling the fender liner, etc.
For the passenger side where there is more room, I used more foam wrap
& dropped the ballast behind the headlight mount where it seems pretty
secure - although somewhat loose. I'll check both after a while to make
sure they remain in place.
I took digital pics of the entire process
including comparative lighting. As
you know, the difference is profound.
However, the pics they really don't do
justice to the amount of increased light
because my digital camera doesn't
permit manual adjustment of lens opening/shutter
speed so the camera's
exposure compensated in part for the different
light levels. I didn't have
the patience to use my SLR w/manual overrides,
get prints & scan them.
Attached are a few of the pictures. The
whole lot is 1.1MB (even at low res).
I'm thrilled with the improved lighting,
especially given the cost. That
said and with hindsight, I think a better
way to go (at likely comparable
price) will be using originally manufactured
HID bulbs in H1 format - when
they become generally available (which
I'm sure will happen before too long).
After examining the D2S base & high
voltage connector, it is obvious great
pains are taken to prevent arcing of the
(about) 24,000 ignition volts & that
seems to be why there is such a large
As an aside, when I had the headlights
out & examined them I saw that the
reflectors and the inside of the lenses
were covered with light dust/dirt. I
guess it's from 5+ years & 34k miles
of use. The headlight assemblies are NOT airtight (open venting under the
spring area), nor is the headlight fender
bucket. I opened the assemblies by prying
each of the 5 catches connecting
the lens assembly from the body. Two of
the catches are "sealed" by a melted down plastic area. Gentle prying broke
open the seals. I then gently pried the 2 parts open by working around
the assembly with a broad
screwdriver/putty knife. Once opened I
carefully cleaned the inside lens
glass & the projector glass lens with
a lint free cloth & glass cleaner. I
also cleaned the reflectors with a dry,
clean, lint free cloth. Reassembly
was easy. Just slide the 2 pieces together
until the catches all snap into
The difference was amazing. Both reflectors
& lenses now look like new
(except for some external stone chips)
with obvious benefits to light output.
Below are the
attachment files from the above e-mail
PIAA super white
PIAA super white
Wiring from headlight
The aftermarket HID Dan used on his
993 was purchased from
RM Lighting, Inc.
Local Phone: 416.258.0051
Toll Free: 1.888.353.8790
This is an e-mail
sent by Dan in answering Chris's question
|An email from Chris said:
<<Congrats - contrary
to what you said, I think the difference your pics show, particularly against
your garage wall, is immense.
Any feedback yet from the guys who
are going the www.autolamps-online.com route ? Or from your hindsight would
this be a better / worse route to go ?>>
Although the photos may show an "immense"
difference, in real life it's much greater. Literally like night &
day. I could never go back to the halogens & I've tried 55W PIAA
Super Whites and 100W H1s.
As far as I know, no Rennlister has yet
done the autolamps conversion. John
in the UK has been trying to reach them,
but, at last report, had a hard time
which is not encouraging. What autolamps
appears to be doing is
sub-contracting with another company to
remount Philips D2S bulbs into a
fabricated H1 mount. Don't know anyone
who has actually seen one, much less installed it. However, PIAA (Japan)
is reportedly producing an HID H1 bulb in Japan (details such as output,
wattage, etc. all unknown). When/if it will be available here is also unknown.
I would be more confident in the PIAA
product than in autolamps's.
Pro to autolamps: H1 mount = reversible
conversion & could use H1 if HID bulb shot until replaced. Since ballasts
are the same as RM, could buy D2S bulbs & do the RM conversion if unhappy
w/the H1 HID. Assume bulb mounted without need for glue (the RM bulbs are
epoxied into place).
Cons to autolamps: The autolamps kit is
more expensive than RM's, is in the
UK so shipping will also be more and the
ability to address any problems will be less (obviously this is a pro to
those in the UK). No report from a credible satisfied user (e.g., Pierre
re: RM) and apparent communications problems BEFORE the sale. Uncertainty
regarding the reliability, longevity, and performance of the aftermarket
H1 bulb base conversion.
In summary, if there was a manufactured
H1 base HID bulb w/similar output,
that's what I'd do. If the concerns about
autolamps are resolved, I might
consider that. But, for now neither choice
is viable. All in all, I'm pleased
w/the RM conversion despite some deficiencies/compromises
in design &
installation (but certainly not in performance).
However, knowing what I now
know, I would not send my lights to RM,
but do the bulb base cutting &
grinding myself. It took a week for the
USPS to get RM my lights via "2-3 day
Global Express" and almost 2 weeks for
the Canadian Postal Service to get
them back to me via its "express service."
Even w/RM's 2 day turnaround, I
was driving on borrowed lights (a lucky
opportunity for me not available to
most) for 3+ weeks.
I'd ask for & likely get a few bucks
off if RM doesn't have to do the shop
work. That savings would likely pay for
a Dremel tool for me to do the job.
Besides, I always wanted a Dremel, but
never had any use for it!
If you should decide or seriously consider
the RM route, let me know & I'll
be glad to send the full 1.1MB of photos
and/or answer any questions.
(96C2 St. Louis)
This e-mail was
sent by Chris Price regarding an inquiry he had made with Autolamp.com
|From: "Chris Price" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Question to Autolamps-Online
Sent: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 13:42:53 -0500
Guys, below is an email I sent to the Autolamps-Online
people, together with their response. It *seems* as if they offer
a solution without any
cutting / modifying etc. i.e. plug and
play, fully reversible if you want to sell the car / HID kit at a later
I'm still considering - but at this point,
if I went for it, I would go the Autolamps route rather than the RM route
John - I (we ?) would love to hear from
you when you get the Autolamps unit back, let us know how they go ...........
SENT TO AUTOLAMPS *************
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Price
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 6:31 PM
I have a 1996,Porsche 911 - does the D2S
kit you supply simply install in my headlamps with CRUCIALLY no modification,
cutting etc. of the current
headlamp assembly i.e. is the install
COMPLETELY reversible ?
******* AND AUTOLAMPS
----- Original Message -----
To: Chris Price
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Question_from_the_Autolamps_Website
The lamps in the kits are designed to fit
exactly where the existing halogen come out, the individual components
fit together and the wiring links the
lamps and ballast etc. They are
I hope this answers your question and
if you have any more concerns or questions please contact us again.
Thank you for your enquiry to Autolamps
Here is an e-mail from Dan Sokal's regarding
his experiences with his HID light install
|From: Dan Sokol St. Louis
Subject: Update - RM install
Sent: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:53:37 -0600
One of my concerns about the RM conversion
was that the D2S bulbs are epoxied (glued) into place. I was worried about
the strength of the bond between the bulb base material & the metal
mounting area given the heat & vibration. If they held well, would
I have a problem in changing a blown bulb? If they didn't, would I have
vibrating, loose bulbs?
I resolved my concern last night. I remounted
the bulbs a better way (I hope). With a little jiggling, the glued on bulbs
came right off (perhaps too easily). I drilled & tapped (threaded)
4 screw holes (#4-40) in each of the headlight bulb mounting areas positioned
to be around the bulb bases when mounted. With each bulb in place, I screwed
in 4 screws w/washers & Loctite on
the threads and now have secure, easily
removable/replaceable D2S bulbs.
I wrapped the ballasts (w/open ends) in
foam & wedged them into the fenders directly behind and above the headlight
assemblies. They are positioned so the headlight assemblies, once re-installed,
keep the ballasts in place. The foam both protects the surrounding area,
including hoses, from abrasion from the ballast and also compresses to
keep the ballast wedged
in tight. The install/removal (after the
learning curve) is as easy and as fast as the oem. I would estimate a bulb
change to be a 15-20 minute job.
The project, as I've done it, has taken
many hours - mostly learning /experimenting. If I were to now redo it,
it would all be done in about 1 1/2 hours (excluding the cutting/grinding
done by RM which might double the time required). While it is not very
difficult, it is not for the totally mechanically inept. It involves a
basic ability and comfort level (and the tools) to cut the
housing, cut, solder &/or crimp wiring,
drill & tap machine screw holes, reaim the lights,etc.
However, at the end of the day - the lighting
John - keep us posted on your H1 project.