How to change the hand brake in case you want to install an aluminum/carbon or aluminum leather hand brake lever

Contributed by: Gert Carnewal

To take out the basket #10 (picture of Console) : 
Remove the rubber piece #11 out of the basket on the end of the console. 
Remove screw #19 from the basket until you can take out #10 To remove cover#9 
Remove 3 screws #19 : 2 are one the back of the cover plate #9, one site under the hand brake lever. Lift up the cover and slide it forward, over the hand brake lever. 

To remove the hand brake lever: (See attached picture of hand brake) 
Remove clips #22 with the tip of a flat screwdriver Slide out pin #21 Loosen nut #26 (key =13mm) , there is a counter nut (M8, key = 13mm) not shown on this drawing that needs to be removed as well. Both nuts need to be removed from # 18 
Push down the hand brake lever and slide it forward to get it out. This goes very easy if the hand brake is pushed down a little while moving it forward. Once the old lever is out, remove #18, #19, #20 and install these parts on the new lever. 
For installation of the new lever, you have to push knob#17 


To adjust the handbrake travel : 
When you pull up the hand brake you should hear 5 to 6 "clicks". Tighten nut #26 to achieve this, then tighten the counter nut. 

The new lever is a bit wider then the original hand brake lever. 

For the installation of cover plate#9, pull on both sides of the cover plate so the opening for the lever get a bit wider while you slide the plate over the new hand brake lever. In this case you don't damage the aluminum or the leather. 

 Below is the "American" version of the center console DIY added on 3/02

I combined both DIY together because of their similarities in part of the components to remove.

993 Center Console R & R DIY

Contributed by:

Robert Henriksen

Degree of difficulty: 2
(In a scale of 1-10, 10 being the most difficult)

Tools you'll need:

  • Large slotted screwdriver
  • #2 Phillips screwdriver
  • 10mm socket, ratchet, and a small-to-mid length extension
  • rag(s)
  • perhaps a flashlight
You start with the rear of the console, removing either the cassette holder or the simple tray that's available as a factory option from the 'radio-delete' cars. I have the latter, and don't remember the removal procedure for the cassette tray; but I think that one pulled straight out, or there were obvious exposed screws.

Once you have that out, the black plastic around the e-brake is retained by three screws, two behind and one directly beneath the lever. You can get to the single one with a regular Phillips coming in at an angle.

There are only one or two tricks here; the main one is disengaging the bottom of the leather boot from the center console trim. Basically, you push it down on the left edge, about 1" from the front & rear corners, to disengage it from a couple of brass catches. Use several layers of rag over the largest screwdriver blade you have, to avoid any damage to the trim or boot. In the photo below, I haven't put my left fingers on the blade close to the tip, but that's where the download pressure will be coming from; the right hand's just holding it in position.

Only the left side has these brass friction catches; the right side is simply tucked up against the underside of the trim, above a couple of peg-like projections. So once you've pushed the left side clear of the front & rear catches, you can wiggle it loose & pull it up above the trim.


The wire/rod/cord thingie sewn into the perimeter of the boot isn't super-strong, nor is the leather held around the wire by anything other than a single running stitch, so I was pretty careful about heaving on it too hard!

The two bezels around the upper & lower rows of buttons are friction-fit into the console. Just grab (lower one first) and pull horizontally towards the rear of the car. Note that while you can unplug the wire connector from the back of each button, it's easier to keep everything straight during reassembly if you just pop the entire button & wire connector out of the bezel. I'm holding this bezel partway out for illustration; during removal or reassembly the buttons (aka rocker switches?) would already be in place in the bezel.

The one connector shown detached from everything is what powers the backlight of each bezel row - the little illuminated labels showing what each button does.

This is a great time to play concours - I'm a big fan of 303, but Vinylex works great too. You can also see to the left of the e-brake trim a small steel (aluminum?) cross-piece that needs to be removed before the big console trim piece can be lifted off from around the e-brake lever. The black tin in the upper-right of the photo is the moly-sulfide grease I used to lube the shifter. I think I used about 0.0000001% of that tin; anyone else in Houston need any?

Here's where you'll stand once the big trim piece is lifted off - it's retained by six screws: rear, middle (under the e-brake lever), and very front top. The carpeted console itself (where all the buttons & wire are spilling out) is only held in place by a whopping four screws! You'll see three screws along the right side (one's visible in the photo below). Ignore the rear & middle screws along the right, they hold on an access panel you don't need to remove. The screw on each side in the very front, plus two in the very rear on top (close to the rubber shift boot) are all that's required.

If you want to get to the shifter action itself, pull the carpet slightly aside & remove the four 10mm brass bolts that hold the brass trim around the perimeter of the rubber shift boot.


That's it!

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