Contributed by: Gert Carnewal
To take out the basket
#10 (picture of Console) :
To remove the hand
brake lever: (See attached picture of hand brake)
To adjust the handbrake
The new lever is a bit wider then the original hand brake lever.
Below is the "American" version of the center console DIY added on 3/02
I combined both DIY together because of their similarities in part of the components to remove.
993 Center Console R & R DIY
Degree of difficulty: 2
Tools you'll need:
Once you have that out, the black plastic around the e-brake is retained by three screws, two behind and one directly beneath the lever. You can get to the single one with a regular Phillips coming in at an angle.
There are only one or two tricks here; the main one is disengaging the bottom of the leather boot from the center console trim. Basically, you push it down on the left edge, about 1" from the front & rear corners, to disengage it from a couple of brass catches. Use several layers of rag over the largest screwdriver blade you have, to avoid any damage to the trim or boot. In the photo below, I haven't put my left fingers on the blade close to the tip, but that's where the download pressure will be coming from; the right hand's just holding it in position.
Only the left side has these brass friction catches; the right side is simply tucked up against the underside of the trim, above a couple of peg-like projections. So once you've pushed the left side clear of the front & rear catches, you can wiggle it loose & pull it up above the trim.
The wire/rod/cord thingie sewn into the perimeter of the boot isn't super-strong, nor is the leather held around the wire by anything other than a single running stitch, so I was pretty careful about heaving on it too hard!
The two bezels around the upper & lower rows of buttons are friction-fit into the console. Just grab (lower one first) and pull horizontally towards the rear of the car. Note that while you can unplug the wire connector from the back of each button, it's easier to keep everything straight during reassembly if you just pop the entire button & wire connector out of the bezel. I'm holding this bezel partway out for illustration; during removal or reassembly the buttons (aka rocker switches?) would already be in place in the bezel.
The one connector shown detached from everything is what powers the backlight of each bezel row - the little illuminated labels showing what each button does.
This is a great time to play concours - I'm a big fan of 303, but Vinylex works great too. You can also see to the left of the e-brake trim a small steel (aluminum?) cross-piece that needs to be removed before the big console trim piece can be lifted off from around the e-brake lever. The black tin in the upper-right of the photo is the moly-sulfide grease I used to lube the shifter. I think I used about 0.0000001% of that tin; anyone else in Houston need any?
Here's where you'll stand once the big trim piece is lifted off - it's retained by six screws: rear, middle (under the e-brake lever), and very front top. The carpeted console itself (where all the buttons & wire are spilling out) is only held in place by a whopping four screws! You'll see three screws along the right side (one's visible in the photo below). Ignore the rear & middle screws along the right, they hold on an access panel you don't need to remove. The screw on each side in the very front, plus two in the very rear on top (close to the rubber shift boot) are all that's required.
If you want to get to the shifter action itself, pull the carpet slightly aside & remove the four 10mm brass bolts that hold the brass trim around the perimeter of the rubber shift boot.