How to Replace the Clutch
I did this on my 1997 Carrera at 37,000
miles. There was no sign of leakage from the old cylinder, but my
car was suffering from the well-known notchy and noisy clutch pedal problems.
Apparently the 993 slave cylinder does not have a long service life.
The slave cylinder is mounted on top of
the transmission, so access is awkward and most of the work has to be done
by touch with one hand. This DIY would be much easier if you could see
what you were doing and could use both hands. Unfortunately it has
to be done blindly and you can only use one hand. The actual
operations are quite straightforward after you have worked out how to access
the area. It is well worth the effort to have a clutch pedal that
operates smoothly and quietly.
The clutch pedal feels notchy, and the
slave cylinder squeaks when the clutch pedal is depressed and released.
The problems are not solved by lubricating the clutch pedal or by bleeding
the slave cylinder.
Tools, parts and materials
13 mm Wrench
17 mm Wrench
950 116 237 12 Clutch slave cylinder
(Optional: flexible hydraulic hose to
clutch slave cylinder)
1. Use a vise grip to clamp off the clutch
master cylinder hydraulic line (blue fabric covered line) where it exits
the brake fluid reservoir.
2. Jack up the back of the car, (How
to jack up the car) support on jack stands and remove the left rear
3. Undo the Dzus fasteners with a Phillips
screwdriver and remove the engine and transmission trays.
4. Find a position under the left rear
of the car where you reach up and find the slave cylinder. Unless
you have the luxury of a lift, the easiest way seems to be to lie on your
back with your feet towards the back of the car and your shoulders just
forward of the suspension.
5. To improve access slightly, undo the
two 13 mm bolts securing the bracket that holds the flexible breather hose
onto the top of the transmission housing just above the drive shaft.
Leave the bracket clipped to the hose, and slide the bracket towards the
front of the car so it is out of your way. This hose and bracket
have nothing to do with the slave cylinder. You are just moving them
to make it easier to reach the slave cylinder.
1. Loosen but do not attempt to remove
the 17 mm coupling that attaches the flexible hydraulic line to the body
of the slave cylinder.
2. Refer to your new slave cylinder to
understand where to feel for the two 13 mm nuts that secure the slave cylinder
to the mounting studs on the clutch housing, and then remove both nuts.
Note that the return spring inside the slave cylinder will push the slave
cylinder away from its mounting points as you undo the nuts.
3. Slide the slave cylinder forwards to
clear the mounting studs, and drop it down so it is hanging on the end
of the flexible hydraulic hose. Inspect the condition of the flexible
hydraulic hose, and take this opportunity to replace it if needed (not
covered by this DIY.)
4. Unscrew the flexible hydraulic hose
from the slave cylinder. Have a rag available to catch any drips
5. You can now reach up and feel the clutch
release lever through the opening where the clutch slave cylinder was mounted.
Locate the recess in the clutch release lever where the slave cylinder
pushrod fits so you will understand how the components are supposed to
align when you install the new slave cylinder.
1. Screw the flexible hydraulic hose coupling
into the new slave cylinder and tighten as much as possible by hand.
2. Remove the slave cylinder bleed screw
cap and loosen, then just hand-tighten, the bleed screw to making bleeding
3. Place a small dab of grease on the
rounded tip of the slave cylinder pushrod.
4. Lift the slave cylinder into position.
Make sure the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted.
5. Slide the slave cylinder towards the
back of the car so that the pushrod engages the recess in the clutch release
lever and both mounting studs align with the holes in the mounting plate
of the slave cylinder.
6. Press the slave cylinder towards the
back of the car against the resistance of the return spring. Get
the cylinder to “catch” on the threads of one of the mounting studs to
hold it in position against the spring resistance so you will have some
exposed thread on which to start the first nut. Tighten the first
nut to draw the slave cylinder against the mounting to expose some thread
on the other stud so you can start the second nut. Tighten both 13
mm nuts securely.
7. Tighten the 17 mm coupling that attaches
the flexible hydraulic line to the body of the slave cylinder.
8. Remove the vise grip from the clutch
master cylinder and bleed the clutch. (How
to bleed the clutch)
9. Test for smooth pedal action.
The pedal action should be smooth, silent and lighter than before.
If the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and does not return, the
system needs to be bled again.
10. When you are satisfied that the clutch
is working correctly, replace the bleed screw cap and re-attach the breather
11. Replace the transmission tray and
the engine tray (optional). Replace the left rear wheel, lower
the car, torque the left rear wheel nuts and go for a drive to enjoy the
fruits of your labor.
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