This DIY will show you how to change the 993 front brake pads, and same procedure to change out the rear pads.
The skill level of this DIY in a skill of 1-10 (10 being the hardest) is a 5
Everyone has a different method of changing brake pads the most commonly used method is to lift the retainer and pry the pistons back in and remove the old pads. This procedure may be a little difficult with factory pads since there are the dome shaped anti squealing shims on the back of the brake pads. The method showing here gives you much more room to work with and lessor of a chance you may damage your rotors.
(1). Put the car on jack stands, please refer to "How to jack your car up" DIY section for details.
(2). Remove the wheel, remove the brake pad sensor wire from the holder by sliding the hold down first.
(3). Use a vise grip pliers to squeeze the center of the brake pad retainer and use a flat screw driver to pry up the retainer. Once the retainer can be swing up you can remove the sensor wires from it. And unplug it at the terminal.
(4). Unbolt the two caliper mounting screw 10 mm hex. These pictures shows the upper and the lower bolts to remove.
(5). A little
modification at the brake line clip will make things a lot easier for you.
For some reason there are no opening at the brake line holder on
the strut, the only way for you to remove the brake line away form the
strut is to loosen the brake lines which means you let air in the brake
system and you will need to bleed the brakes later. I found it to
be much easier if you make a little modification to the brake line holder.
Use a Dremel motor tool with a cut off wheel attachment and make a opening
for yourself. This way you can slide the brake lines out from the
strut and you would have no possibility of bending the brake line by accident
when working on the caliper.
Here is a picture of the brake caliper completely off and can be easily worked on. No coat hangers or wires to tie it up. Use a C clamp to squeeze the pistons back in so there will be enough room to clear the rotors once the new pads are installed. Now you can remove the brake pads from the caliper, you may need to use a flat screw driver to pry it out from the pistons. If you added brake fluid in your reservoir because the fluid level went down since the pads were worn out you need to use a turkey baster to suck some out first, because when you squeeze the pistons back in the fluid level will rise and it may over flow the reservoir. Also to remove the cap on the reservoir will help ease the process of squeezing the pistons back in.
To remove the rotor you will need to unscrew the two Philips screw that holds the rotor in place. Some screws may be rusted on, recommend using a impact screw driver to remove them. Once the screws is removed the rotor will come right off.
by Ray Calvo from the factory shop manual:
This is the "BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT HOW-TO" contributed by
Ray Calvo for the Allegeheny Region PCA newsletterletter
Somebody on "Rennlist" recently asked me my procedure for replacing brake pads on all 4 wheels in under an hour on my 993. I thought I had written this up, but in doing an archeology dig, I couldn't find anything. So, here goes! I would think that a modification to this procedure could be used on any Porsche from about the 964 vintage.
First, a warning
- a fabric-like lining glued to the back of the pad backing plate.
To initially get the pads out, I used a stiff metal scraper (like used for paint/grout/plaster scraping in the home) between the anti-squeal shim and the brake backing plate. Then with the anti-squeal shim free from the pad, the pad could be pulled and the anti-squeal "junk" could be removed.
Now on to the pad replacement. This is what I use; vary to suit yourself:
- 2 1/4 ton floor
jack with a hockey puck in the lifting cup (protects the body)
OK, here we go!
1) Loosen all
lug nuts with breaker bar and 19mm socket (I don't have wheel locks; you
might have to use the special socket if you have special anti-theft lug
Finished? Not quite! Remember, pistons are full contracted into the pistons; you have to extend them to their normal position against the brake pads. I pump the brakes slowly, trying never to go more than about half stroke on the brake pedal. This could take about 10-20 pumps. Once pedal is firm, car is ready for a test drive and a pad break-in (follow manufacturers directions).
MORE on the ATE brake pad puller tool: I bought this back when the peanut-picker was in the White House. As I remember, it was pretty universally available at most of the aftermarket Porsche parts houses. Now, when I want to describe it, I can't find a source!! Some "Rennlisters" noted that the tools available at the following sites were similar.